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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 02-23-2008
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Hello,

The price seemed high to me, but I think it was worth if. It took the guy two solid days of work. The soda is very gentle on the hull. I looked at two boats that had been media blasted (small plastic beads) and the bottoms looked terrible. Many many places where the gelcoat was blasted off, leaving pockmarks in the fiberglass. On my boat about 1/2 of the previous barrier coat is intact, in other places gelcoat has been revealed. There is no damage to the gelcoat, it is nice and smooth.

I do plan on sanding everything, then washing, barrier coat, and bottom paint. I will use an ablative paint, so I never have to go through this again.

One last point, this is Long Island, NY, so EVERYTHING costs more. The sand / media blast guys charge $1200, and then you would have LOTS of time and money to properly prepare the bottom.

If you want more info on the soda blast process, visit here:

http://www.allsurfacesodablasting.co...m?header.htm&0

http://www.allislandsodablasting.com/

Barry
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  #12  
Old 02-23-2008
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Thanks for sharing. Looks like the result that I ended up with except I have lots of little blisters about the size of a pencil eraser. What's your thinking on barrier coating? Straight epoxy or use products specific to barrier coating? I'm currently considering MAS epoxy and the slow hardner.
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  #13  
Old 02-23-2008
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MAS Flag epoxy and the slow hardner is what I used.
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  #14  
Old 02-23-2008
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If you look at a sodablasted hull, it has a very fine tooth to it, much like what a good sanding prep job would leave behind, Sodablasting is definitely the way to go, if you have to remove all of the paint and want to do it quickly and cost-effectively IMHO.

Sailingcal21—

Have you popped any of those little blisters. If you haven't, you probably should, but do so wearing googles/safety glasses and gloves, since osmotic blisters are filled with nasty chemicals at relatively high pressures. If the blisters are dry, and not filled with liquid, it is more likely that they're small layup voids, since osmotic blisters would be wet. If they're not wet, just fill them with thickened epoxy and paint over them.

For barrier coating, I prefer to use Interprotect 2000E. The main reason I like using the IP2KE is ease of use and application. I've described my method for applying it, using the two different colors, white and grey, to make it as simple to apply as possible, especially when working around the boat stands on this site before. If either you or Barry want me to dig it up, I can repost the technique in this thread.
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Old 02-23-2008
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I used blue tape when I was using epoxy on my bottom to show where I stopped or around the stands when I had to move them. It was simple and it worked for me. I still need to be shown how epoxy paint can offer the same protection as epoxy resin. I've removed paint and I've removed epoxy resin. The resin has to be 10 times harder to remove.
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Old 02-23-2008
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freesail—

Just curious, have you tried to remove Interprotect 2000E, which is an epoxy based paint??
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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Old 02-23-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
freesail—

Just curious, have you tried to remove Interprotect 2000E, which is an epoxy based paint??
I have on a friends boat. It is harder then normal paint to remove but a far cry from epoxy resin. With the resin I ended up using a belt sander and it was eating up 50 grit belts like candy.
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I had a dream, I was sailing, I was happy, I was even smiling. Then I looked down and saw that I was on a multi-hull and woke up suddenly in a cold sweat.
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