Leaky Port lights on a Pearson 10M

[DrB]

I have a couple of leaky port lights on my Pearson 10M. I checked the P10M website and although Dan has a schematic of a port light out, He really doesn't go into fixing a leaky one. I also tried to search here, but the search capabilites are somewhat primitive.

The lights themselves are in great shape (tempered glass) and most of them don't exhibit any type of glazing or weather seal degradation. I'd really not like to rip these things out unless necessary.

Is there a way to fix without gooping silicone caulk all over the place? The thing I don't like about silicone is once it is down, it is a PITA to clean once is degrades. What about using traditional window glaze putty for houses or even 3M 47XX or 5XXX series bedding materials?

DrB

[SailorMitch]

Email Dan. He is still your best source for anything that may be peculiar to the 10M. There have been several email threads on here about fixing leaking ports -- surprised nothing worthwhile showed up on a search. There also was a long thread very recently on the Pearson Sailnet email list about replacing portlights. Someone on that list may have saved it and can send it to you, so join that email list if you haven't already.

[sailortype]

I have a P30, just did my portlights... used butyl auto glazing tape, worked well. You have to remove the lights to do a decent job however, clean them up and set them back in. The tape is not the flat stuff which compresses after time but a round variety that can be stretched out to a thin bead when needed. Spray the two surfaces with Windex before mating because it's a very tough bond.... the Windex allows a bit of adjustment before the adhesion sets.

[nickmerc]

How hard was it for you to get the portlights out? I need to rebed all of my lights and I am afraid I will bend all of the frames trying to remove them.

[sailortype]

they came out very easily... at least the two in the main salon, no reason the others shouldn't. The old caulking is quite brittle and parts easily with gentle pushing around the frames. Four hands might be better than two but it really was not difficult. The problem was more getting them back in with the (very sticky) tape on the frame. The outer frame has about a 1/2 inch flange for sealing but the builders didn't spare much time cutting out the template hole so it took some playing around to get the outer frame back in and in a suitable place that there was enough fibreglass to mate against all 'round with the tape. I did have to grind it out a bit to make a bit more room and this was definitely a two person job. I now realize I did it a bit backwards, should have positioned the outer frame first, drawn a thin pencil line once properly situated and put the tape on the fibreglass, not the frame. Live and learn. :-|
Be careful with the Philips screws on the inside, they seem to be some weird head and some weird thread, I couldn't get a screwdriver to fit them properly and they'll be impossible to replace unless you want to get rid of them all and retap with some 'regular' machine bolts. (use fine thread)