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12-03-2007
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new 120v ac system
As of yesterday, we are owners of our first keelboat, a Westerly Fulmar. The boat's AC system needs to be scrapped, as it does not meet curtrent standards. I currently consists of three outlets, a single breaker, and the shoreport inlet.
So I could usse some guidance on a new system. Whenever possible, I want to keep it simple and inexpensive, as lots of other things need to be done.
1. charging - there is no battery charger
2. Inverting - nothing big, no microwaves, etc. We would mostly be running electronics, laptop, maybe a drill or saw occasionally. Under 100 watts for sure. Would not have to power the outlets if that saves time/money in wiring.
There is no panel, so I would need one.
Since I am essentially working from scratch Is there an advantage to buying an all in one charger/inverter? The Heart Freedom 10 seems like it would do the trick. Do I need a shorepower/inverter selector switch if I go this route, vs the simple stand alone chargers and inverters?
Any suggestions on the Panel? Blue sea has a simple one that is < $200.00
Does the panel need to be near the DC Panels?
Chris
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12-03-2007
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I would recommend getting the Heart Freedom, but would recommend going up to the Freedom 15, as it is far more useful IMHO than the Freedom 10.
You don't need a shorepower/inverter selector switch, since you are supposed to wire the AC-side of the boat through the Freedom inverter/charger to prevent problems. The shorepower breaker will effectively turn the inverter/charger on and off.
The AC breaker panel for the shorepower connection does not have to be near the DC panel. Either does the Freedom inverter/charger unit. However, the inverter/charger should be as close to the house battery bank as is possible.
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12-03-2007
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moderate?
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I agree with the dawgs recommendations but would caution that ABYC regs prevent the Heart from being mountted in the same space as the batteries. Near...but not IN the same space. Had to move mine after a survey said no go and insurance demanded correction.
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12-03-2007
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Good point Cam... having the Freedom in the same space as the batteries is a fire/explosion hazard, especially if the batteries are wet-cell.
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New England
You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
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12-04-2007
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I believe the ABYC allows the inverter / charger to be mounted anywhere except immediately above the batteries.
Howard
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12-04-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by witzgall
As of yesterday, we are owners of our first keelboat, a Westerly Fulmar. The boat's AC system needs to be scrapped, as it does not meet curtrent standards. I currently consists of three outlets, a single breaker, and the shoreport inlet.
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not sure what about the above doesn't meet current standards. and why does it need to be scrapped? an inverter charger doesn't change anything except give you 120v off of your batteries and keep them charged at the dock.
the freedom 10 automatically gives 120v flowthrough when plugged in at the dock and switches to battery when you are running on batteries. good thing to have but doesn't do anything for upgrading your ac to "current standards".
i know of no drill or saw out there that draw less than 100 watts. even my laptop draws more than that. that's not even an amp of current.
if you can be clearer about what is substandard about your ac system then we can advise better what should be changed. proper bulkhead plug for ac 20 amp cord (min), 14 gauge romex two wire cable (+ground), grounded outlets, 20A breaker (preferably GFI), breaker fully encased in a grounded ac electrical box, make sure the AC ground is isolated from dc ground, and you're good to go.
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12-04-2007
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Hoffa-
The Freedom 10 inverter/charger provides 1000 W of power as an inverter, not 100 W. So, most smaller power tools will work just fine on it... since it is almost 9 amps of AC power. I recommended the Freedom 15, or better yet the Freedom 20, if the OP has a large enough battery bank, since that would allow you to draw 13.5 or 18 amps AC, which is like having a home 15 Amp or 20 Amp circuit.
You do need a pretty hefty battery bank to feed the Freedom 15/20 at full load...but most of the time you wouldn't be using at anywhere near full load. However, there would be certain times/situations where the extra capacity would really be nice.
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Telstar 28
New England
You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
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12-04-2007
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1. No reverse Polarity indicator
2. Must have main breaker, then seperate breaker for each additional circuit.
The inverter is not a requirement, other than my own.
Chris
[QUOTE=HoffaLives;232353]not sure what about the above doesn't meet current standards. and why does it need to be scrapped? an inverter charger doesn't change anything except give you 120v off of your batteries and keep them charged at the dock.
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12-04-2007
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Right now all the battery compartment has is two (Shot) grp 27 gell batteries. Would you believe they are over 17 years old, and still start the engine!!!
I am thinking that I can get a Energy1 AGM in the place of the house batt, as there is plenty of vertical room, just not as much in the other two directions. The battery would have to live on it's side, which is ok for them.
Chris
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12-04-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by witzgall
1. No reverse Polarity indicator
2. Must have main breaker, then seperate breaker for each additional circuit.
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forgot about the reverse polarity indicator, sorry. not sure that you need two breakers if you only have one circuit. all three outlets are wired together right? are you planning on separating them? but what you are saying is that you only need a new panel, not whole ac system.
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