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  #1  
Old 12-09-2007
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Universal M2-12 Overheating

I had some engine work done over the last two months, and everything was finally completed and put back together at the yard yesterday, with one problem: the engine was operating at the high end of the normal 165-195° range. The yard check the raw water impeller and it was fine, there was flow out the exhaust, so they suspected the heat exchanger.

Since it is literally a few hundred yards to my slip, I decided to take her home and see if I could fix the problem myself. Started off fine, water coming out of the exhaust, the temp rose steadily to about 160-180, but after a few minutes shot up to 220 - obviously out of range. By then I was at the slip, so I cut the engine and glided in. Total time yard to slip maybe 3-5 minutes.

First things first, I checked the raw water impeller myself - very small crack in one of the vanes, but other than that it was fine (meaning no missing pieces - but it will be replaced anyway).

I have a hot water heater and a reservoir in the lazarette; it was completely empty, and is usually at least half full. So, there may not have been enough water/AF added into the fresh water circuit when it was put back together.

I removed the heat exchanger and flushed it out with fresh water; there was a fair amount of silt/dirt on the raw water side. When I took off the end cover/gasket, there was some crud but no noticeable scaling (at least not to me... the PO had the HE serviced about 2 years ago by a local radiator shop). Then I looked closer - at least two holes on the raw water intake side were plugged with black plastic, with some other loose pieces of plastic and zinc remnants. I gently ran a wire down each tube and unplugged some junk from the other end, then flushed it out through the zinc mount. All told, here's just some of what came out, mostly on the raw intake side. The Yard was pretty sure this was causing enough obstruction of the raw water flow to cause the overheating:


Here's a shot of the tubing - does that appear to be in pretty decent shape? I will probably drop it off for servicing this week:


Tomorrow if I get a chance I'll check the thermostat and mixing elbow, any other suggestions?
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Last edited by phallo153; 12-09-2007 at 01:26 AM.
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Old 12-09-2007
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You may have fixed it already with what you've done. Put it back together and see if it works as it should.
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Old 12-09-2007
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I've never seen a coin-operated freshwater pump.... Maybe you shouldn't be putting pennies in the pump.

Did you flush the freshwater side of the heat exchanger? Have you inspected the freshwater side... if you haven't it might need a good cleaning and flush.
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Originally Posted by phallo153 View Post
I removed the heat exchanger and flushed it out with fresh water; there was a fair amount of silt/dirt on the raw water side. When I took off the end cover/gasket, there was some crud but no noticeable scaling (at least not to me... the PO had the HE serviced about 2 years ago by a local radiator shop). Then I looked closer - at least two holes on the raw water intake side were plugged with black plastic, with some other loose pieces of plastic and zinc remnants. I gently ran a wire down each tube and unplugged some junk from the other end, then flushed it out through the zinc mount. All told, here's just some of what came out, mostly on the raw intake side. The Yard was pretty sure this was causing enough obstruction of the raw water flow to cause the overheating:


Here's a shot of the tubing - does that appear to be in pretty decent shape? I will probably drop it off for servicing this week:


Tomorrow if I get a chance I'll check the thermostat and mixing elbow, any other suggestions?
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Last edited by sailingdog; 12-09-2007 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 12-09-2007
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Damn heat exchangers!
Are you watching there Northeaster?

Looks like bit of an old impeller there.
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Old 12-09-2007
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SD - I did flush the freshwater side, but can't see into it. Didn't notice any debris or dirt when I flushed it, and it seems to flow fine. Here's a pic of the exchanger - only access is the end cap:



I also pulled the thermostat and tested it... it's opening up at about 175°, I'm guessing that's normal for an engine operating range of 165-195°. No idea how old the thermostat is, so I ordered a new one anyway. I also checked the raw water injection port at mixing elbow, no blockage or buildup that I can tell.



I think I've covered everything short of pulling the elbow off the manifold...
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The debris does look like old impeller parts...and too big to have gotten past the intake side, strainer and all that.

What can you tell us about the history of the boat OR the nature of the 'engine work' that was commissioned prior to this issue?
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Old 12-09-2007
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I lost compression back in October after 5-10 mins of motoring out of the marina, and had it towed into a local yard; diagnosis was a piece of metal from the air filter/silencer worked it's way down the intake and stuck a valve open. It took well over a month to get the parts in and the head put back on.
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Old 01-01-2008
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Update:
Solved the overheating problem a few week ago - I had some scale in the coolant return from the hot water heater, which is located in the lazarette. I took the heater off the coolant circuit and everything is fine temperature-wise. Once I get all the hoses cleaned and some connections replaced I'll plumb the heater back in.

I took the boat for a short run last week and am still getting some (what appears to be) black/dark gray smoke when put under a certain amount of load. The first time was when I put it in reverse to stop forward motion and swing us around in a basin. It started to put out more smoke than normal, smoke was also mixed with the exhaust water. Cleared up right away when I put in forward.

Then we motored at probably 2-3 knots and when were clear of the harbor, throttled up (no tach so don't know RPM's, but probably 60% of full power). Boat seemed to struggle, did not want to speed up much more, and started to smoke more until I throttled back.

The engine runs smooth, sounds great, and does not overheat anymore. It just doesn't respond well like before to increased power and seems struggles when trying to go above 3-3.5 knots.

Besides a fouled bottom (it is a bit slimy) and/or prop, what else should be suspect? I plan to arrange a haul-out shortly, and will replace fuel and filters.

Specs:
1) No overheating - runs at low end of temp range.
2) No noticeable smoke under low load - have to hold hand over exhaust to see it.
3) Shaft can be turned by hand rather easily in neutral
4) Stuffing box cool after several minutes of running in forward (shaft doesn't appear to be obstructed)
5) Engine sounds and runs smooth
6) Dark gray/black smoke, sooty water under load (sorry don't know specific rpm, when trying to go above 2-3 knots)
7) Increasing throttle normally responded right away, up to hull speed (6.3) rather quickly; now it seems to struggle to get over 3 knots or so.
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Last edited by phallo153; 01-01-2008 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 01-02-2008
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I would first check the prop. Sounds like it's fouled since you say engine runs and sounds great. Fouling would prevent the prop from producing thrust which is what moves the boat.
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Old 01-02-2008
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There are a variety of things that can cause black smoke. It's fairly common, particularly on motors that are a little bit older, to be present on start up or when power is applied quickly. Black smoke is the result of carbon build up from inefficiently burned fuel exiting via the exhaust.

It can occur at start up or when power is applied because fuel is dumped into the cylinders at a quicker rate than the motor is running at.

However, if it is persistent, then you have a definite problem. Because it is caused by inefficient combustion, there are two common root causes: air and fuel delivery.

Clean, sufficient air is needed for efficient combustion. If you have a dirty or blocked air filter, that could be a source of the problem.

More commonly, though, it's the fuel delivery. The most common problem there is your fuel injectors. If they are blocked, dirty, or incorrectly installed (cough, cough, Northshore Marine, cough) then they won't be properly injecting fuel into the cylinders. If the fuel isn't properly atomizing because the injectors aren't spraying it well, or if fuel continues to leak post-combustion, then that excess fuel will cause black smoke.

It could also be another issue with your fuel delivery system, but I would first suspect the injectors.
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