Link 2000R error codes

[kmclarke]

Help, I need help. I have a link 200r monitoring a xantrex 2000w inverter. The link is showing an error code P100 and that # decreases as amps are used up. I can not find what that code means anywhere . I have tried the xantrex website and calling although I have never been able to get through on the phone.
Also I have tried to run my xantrex off of my honda 2000w gen but the gen shutsdown on overvoltage. The amps are well over 100 when the gen shuts down . Ihave replaced all me bats 6 - 6v t105.
Any tips are appreaciatred,

[camaraderie]

See here:
http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/90/docserve.asp

It is percent charged mode....i.e. 100% then less as you use the batts.
I don't know what you are trying to do from your Honda but the CHARGER portion of your Xantrex puts out 100amps DC or 1200 watts which should be compatible with your Honda unless you are trying to use other stuff at the same time. Are you running your honda through the boats electrical dockside power plug? Do you have any problems with dockside power and your Xantrex or is it just off the Honda that there are issues?

Did you set your Xantrex capacity for about 675 amp hours? I am assuming you have three PAIRS of 6V's wired at 225AH's per pair at 12V. Most Xantrex monitors come preset for just 200ah's.

[thekeip]

You will always have trouble trying to run your generator into a huge inductive load as the charger is...it's a power factor thing. A temporary solution, counter intuitive, to be sure, is to plug in a couple of 50-60 W light bulbs to the generator's 120VAC socket. The improvement in power factor way more than offsets the additional load. A better, more permanent solution would be to add a 'motor-run' capacitor instead of the bulbs. You can get the capacitor at an appliance repair shop.
Howard Keiper
Sea Quest
Berkeley

[kmclarke]

Thanks Cam . Yes I set the batt capacity to 625 and yes I do have trouble when at dockside. Last time I plugged in the monitor was displaying 15 V Waaaay to high but my portable gps was showing only about 13.7 so I checked Vcoming into the batts at the charger leads and they matched almost exactly the GPS display. Then I checked V coming out and they showed just a little less. Also when the link went to float it was displaying about 13.9 when it should only be about 13.2 I compensated for this ( short term) by changing the batt temp adjustment which will allow you to change the float Volts.
I am in Miami Now awaiting a descent wx window to cross to Bimini and thought that when I bought the gen I would have solved the other prob that I have wich is a poorly insulated fridge that will only stay below 0 for a half hr after the eng is shut down( eng drive compressor) then I could charge batts with the Honda and run the fridge on AC , That is a different subject however nad any comments on the charging are VERY appreaciated.

I will try plugging in some lights as you described Thekiep when the other boats in the anchorage have woken up , as the honda gets quite loud when it try to give teverything it has to Solange IV

Thaks K

[thekeip]

My first guess at the voltage disparity issue is that something's wrong with the shunt circuit. The various meters that display Current info do so by measuring the voltage drop across a shunt, which is a very precise resistor connected between your battery negative (-) and ground. Maybe it's the wrong value for some reason, or not positioned (electrically) or connected correctly.
Howard Keiper
Sea Quest
Berkeley

[kmclarke]

I tried plugging in a 60 w LIGHT ,no change. I tried changing the batt cap to 120 to see if the link would only allow a much smaller load for the bulk charge , no difference. Something I did notice is that although the amps go as high as 120 before the gen shuts down , the volts don't go over 13.05.
Tried calling Xantrex but was on hold for too long and had to hang up.
What now?

[camaraderie]

To Keips question about the shunt...I am wondering if that is an issue too with the different V readings. Do you have absolutely ALL negative wires off the batteries except for the one to the shunt??
There's a really good Link/battery guy in Marsh Harbor (Andrew)...if you are eventually headed that way but I don't know of anyone good in the Exumas.

[thekeip]

I guess I should have been more specific re the added light bulbs...you'll need at least 150 watts, maybe more, but in spite of the sense that the generator won't like it, adding that resistance really does improve the performance.
And re the proper capacitor, a 50MFD, 270volt 'motor run' cap is ideal and can be attached permanently to the output. I'd probably make up a cap with a plug soldered in a way that could be plugged into the generator's outlet just like the light bulb. BTW, don't do both, although you wont hurt anything.
Howard Keiper

[kmclarke]

Cam, The Kiep. Can you explain how I would troubleshoot the shunt? I think that that woiuld be the more likely culprit as I do have problems with dockside power charging as well. The honda is probaly a symptom of something else.
K.

[thekeip]

Were they (the monitor and the shunt) part of the same package when you got them? The reason for asking is that it's sort of like not buying the correct sensor for your temp gauge and wondering why your engine's always too hot or cold. That aside, you'll need to get with the maker of the monitor and get their advice. The resistance of the shunt is measured in 0.1's and 0.01's of ohms and not easily read with Harbor Freight equipment....much as I do like their stuff. You should also be sure you use the twisted pair wires from it to the monitor, if they've provided them. Other than that, I'm stumped.
Howard

As an afterthought... that you can get seemingly much more realistic readings from your GPS is telling you something