TEAK Is Separating

[bfdtpkt]

My TEAK brightwork is separating where two pieces come together at my center cockpit topside.
If anybody is familiar with ENDEAVOURS you know that the center cockpit has a large flat strip of teak about 7" wide surrounding the cockpit.......
the teak has actually partially "lifted" and has a small gap between the two adjoining planks due to moisture.

My question is, should I squirt some sort of sealant between these pieces to keep moisture out before I sand down and VARNISH?
If so, what's recommended for this?
Thanks!

[pigslo]

I always liked the look of the Endeavours, many that have the sweeping combing made of teak. I would dig out any sealant that might have been there from before if there is a gap. Then put your sealant of choice but make sure you use one that is "paintable" as the varnish will need to stick to it. 3M makes a product called 5200 that I prefer but many on the board don't like it. They do make a 5200 in a teak color and buy a small tube as it hardens up once opened unless you put it in the freezer.
pigslo

[chucklesR]

You could try epoxy and teak wood flour (sawdust) - fill the crack up, sand down, varnish over and you'd never know it was there..

[sailingdog]

Do you have a photo of the problem area? A photo would make it much more obvious what the exact problem is and what the best solutions might be.

Right now, without a photo, I would second ChucklesR, and suggest that epoxy thickened with wood flour might be the best way to proceed.

You should definitely dig out and remove as much of the old sealant as possible. You should also dry the area as thoroughly as possible. Do you have a good way to clamp the teak down after you epoxy it??

Originally Posted by bfdtpkt

My TEAK brightwork is separating where two pieces come together at my center cockpit topside.
If anybody is familiar with ENDEAVOURS you know that the center cockpit has a large flat strip of teak about 7" wide surrounding the cockpit.......
the teak has actually partially "lifted" and has a small gap between the two adjoining planks due to moisture.

My question is, should I squirt some sort of sealant between these pieces to keep moisture out before I sand down and VARNISH?
If so, what's recommended for this?
Thanks!

[bfdtpkt]

I don't have a pic, HIGH COTTON is currently at the Tampa Bay Sailing Squadron in Apollo Beach and I'm in Miami Shores....... but I'm gonna try ya'll's suggestion when I go back over there next month. THX!

[Freesail99]

If you use the saw dust and epoxy to fill up the space, make sure you tape off what you don't want epoxy on. I would tape below ( so it doesn't drip on the fiberglass ) and the sides of each piece of teak.

[Sabreman]

I agree that a photo is needed or perhaps a drawing and a more detailed description (how big a gap?). I say that because of the statement that the "teak has actually partially "lifted" and has a small gap between the two adjoining planks due to moisture". Wood movement in the form of contraction and expansion is tangential to the grain. That is, wood expands and contracts predominately across its width and not nearly as much length-wise. When you say "adjoining", I'm assuming that the two pieces are joined end to end. If so, I doubt that the gap formed solely due to moisture. I'm also wondering about the lifting thing. Should the whole piece be removed and refastened? Without a photo or some idea of how big the gap is, it's hard to deterine the best way to fill it.

Another option for filling that may be more esthetically pleasing is to epoxy a wedge of teak in the gap. If the gap is 1/8" or more, I'd use a teak wedge. Whether using a wedge or epoxy/sawdust putty, make sure that the teak is CLEAN, otherwise the epoxy will not hold. Teak is naturally oily (that's why it doesn't rot), so unless it's clean and roughed up, nothing will stick to it.

Good luck.