Water in the rudder - now what? - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #1  
Old 12-29-2007
pmoyer's Avatar
"Quack, damn you."
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Delaware
Posts: 126
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
pmoyer is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to pmoyer
Water in the rudder - now what?

I have a wet rudder (on the inside, not just the outside). There are rusty stains coming out of cracks about 4" up from the bottom edge. I've pulled the rudder and it's sitting at my house. I'm not sure what to do with it next. Casey recommends drilling a series of 3/16" holes through it to let it dry out, but I'm not sure if the rudder stock is damaged inside. Is drying it out "good enough," or should I take more drastic measures like splitting it, or building a new one, before epoxying, glassing, and fairing?

Cheers,
Phil
__________________
Phil Moyer
S/V Puddleduck
Columbia 26K
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #2  
Old 12-30-2007
Gary M's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sarnia ON
Posts: 675
Thanks: 3
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 9
Gary M is on a distinguished road
If it seems solid then just drill a couple of small holes in the bottom and let it drain for a while. Then epoxy it and it should be OK.

Good Luck, worked for me once.

Gary
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #3  
Old 12-30-2007
Faster's Avatar
Just another Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Westminster, BC
Posts: 15,325
Thanks: 88
Thanked 242 Times in 233 Posts
Rep Power: 10
Faster has a spectacular aura about Faster has a spectacular aura about Faster has a spectacular aura about
Agree that if you are able to dry it out, and reseal the drain holes and repair the crack you should be OK.

You might want to put the stock in a vise (protect it from scoring) and make sure the blade is still solid to the shaft.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #4  
Old 12-30-2007
denby's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dead Sea, some times called Long Island Sound
Posts: 2,527
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 11
denby is a jewel in the rough denby is a jewel in the rough denby is a jewel in the rough denby is a jewel in the rough
Drill holes at bottom, let it dry over the winter, seal it up and your good to go . Did the same thing last winter and had no problems.
__________________
Dennis
O'Day 302

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Be careful or i will do what the voices tell me to do
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To get the most from Sailnet, follow the link in
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
's signature.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Hey stuffit "Get a life"
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #5  
Old 12-30-2007
sailingdog's Avatar
Telstar 28
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
Rep Power: 13
sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice
Phil-

The question is whether the internal stainless steel stock and webbing is still in good shape? If the water has caused the stainless steel to corrode and weakened it, letting it dry out isn't going to leave you with a safe to use rudder.

Splitting it is the only way you'll be able to inspect the stock and webbing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmoyer View Post
I have a wet rudder (on the inside, not just the outside). There are rusty stains coming out of cracks about 4" up from the bottom edge. I've pulled the rudder and it's sitting at my house. I'm not sure what to do with it next. Casey recommends drilling a series of 3/16" holes through it to let it dry out, but I'm not sure if the rudder stock is damaged inside. Is drying it out "good enough," or should I take more drastic measures like splitting it, or building a new one, before epoxying, glassing, and fairing?

Cheers,
Phil
__________________
Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #6  
Old 12-30-2007
HoffaLives's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: my mother's basement
Posts: 531
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
HoffaLives is on a distinguished road
if it's never been done, i would split it. cs rudders have this problem, and ours was split and rebuilt a few years ago. rust tells you water has gotten to the ss, but you can never know the condition without having a look. prudence suggests having a look and making sure the stock or web isn't swiss cheese.
__________________
red peril
severodvinsk class russian submarine
1993
364 feet

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

our life afloat:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #7  
Old 12-30-2007
camaraderie's Avatar
moderate?
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: East Coast
Posts: 13,877
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 15
camaraderie is a jewel in the rough camaraderie is a jewel in the rough camaraderie is a jewel in the rough
Rusty stains mean you need to split it open and do a full repair/rebuild for safety sake.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #8  
Old 12-30-2007
Bristol 45.5 - AiniA
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,611
Thanks: 5
Thanked 86 Times in 75 Posts
Rep Power: 9
killarney_sailor is on a distinguished road
Age of boat?

You don't say how old your boat is, but if it is from the 70s or 80s chances are good that that webbing in the rudder is not stainless steel but carbon steel. This was the practice followed by reputable builders of the time like C&C, Tartan and Hinterhoeller and, I assume many others. I guess they thought that water could never get that far into the rudder to cause a problem. I split and rebuilt the rudder on my Niagara 35 because of rusty water coming out around the rudder shaft each winter. I tried the drying hole approach a couple of years and it did not really help.

I carefully split the rudder into two halves and removed the filler to get at the shaft and web. Had a machine shop add a stainless web to the shaft and then put the two halves together and joined the edges with wide fibreglas tape. I used WEST epoxy and aluminum filler to seal the rudder and put 5200 around the shaft to try to keep water out in future - likely to need replacement from time to time as the shaft and rudder have different expansion rates.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #9  
Old 12-30-2007
pmoyer's Avatar
"Quack, damn you."
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Delaware
Posts: 126
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
pmoyer is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to pmoyer
Excellent advice everyone! Thank you. Sailingdog, you answered the question of split or not, and how to tell the next step. I appreciate it. I'll take in in my basement, dry it out with the hole method for a couple of weeks, and then split it apart. It's a thin fiberglass shell over foam, so even if I put new webbing on it, I should be able to fit it back into the shell without any troubles.

Thanks again! I'll send some pictures along when I get the project under way.

Cheers,
Phil
__________________
Phil Moyer
S/V Puddleduck
Columbia 26K
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #10  
Old 12-30-2007
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,174
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 14
k1vsk will become famous soon enough
It's irrelevant whether the webbing is stainless - the welds are the weak point and subject to rust failure. The only way to ensure it is structurally sound is to split it and inspect/repair. The rust colored water is usually a show-stopper indication of weld failure.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Water, Precious Water Michael Carr Cruising Articles 0 09-02-2004 09:00 PM
Water, Water Everywhere Tania Aebi Cruising Articles 0 06-14-2004 09:00 PM
Basic Thoughts on Tides Jim Sexton Learning to Sail Articles 0 11-17-2003 08:00 PM
Rudder Problems Mark Matthews Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 02-13-2002 08:00 PM
The Balance of Hull and Sails Steve Colgate Seamanship Articles 0 05-25-2000 09:00 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:39 PM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.