Water in the rudder - now what? - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 12 Old 12-29-2007 Thread Starter
"Quack, damn you."
 
pmoyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Delaware
Posts: 126
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 11
 
Send a message via AIM to pmoyer
Water in the rudder - now what?

I have a wet rudder (on the inside, not just the outside). There are rusty stains coming out of cracks about 4" up from the bottom edge. I've pulled the rudder and it's sitting at my house. I'm not sure what to do with it next. Casey recommends drilling a series of 3/16" holes through it to let it dry out, but I'm not sure if the rudder stock is damaged inside. Is drying it out "good enough," or should I take more drastic measures like splitting it, or building a new one, before epoxying, glassing, and fairing?

Cheers,
Phil

Phil Moyer
S/V Puddleduck
Columbia 26K
pmoyer is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 Old 12-30-2007
Senior Member
 
Gary M's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sarnia ON
Posts: 695
Thanks: 3
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Rep Power: 11
 
If it seems solid then just drill a couple of small holes in the bottom and let it drain for a while. Then epoxy it and it should be OK.

Good Luck, worked for me once.

Gary
Gary M is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 12 Old 12-30-2007
Just another Moderator
 
Faster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Westminster, BC
Posts: 18,571
Thanks: 137
Thanked 477 Times in 451 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
Agree that if you are able to dry it out, and reseal the drain holes and repair the crack you should be OK.

You might want to put the stock in a vise (protect it from scoring) and make sure the blade is still solid to the shaft.
Faster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 12 Old 12-30-2007
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,527
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 13
       
Drill holes at bottom, let it dry over the winter, seal it up and your good to go . Did the same thing last winter and had no problems.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
denby is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 12 Old 12-30-2007
Telstar 28
 
sailingdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 18 Times in 14 Posts
Rep Power: 15
         
Phil-

The question is whether the internal stainless steel stock and webbing is still in good shape? If the water has caused the stainless steel to corrode and weakened it, letting it dry out isn't going to leave you with a safe to use rudder.

Splitting it is the only way you'll be able to inspect the stock and webbing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmoyer View Post
I have a wet rudder (on the inside, not just the outside). There are rusty stains coming out of cracks about 4" up from the bottom edge. I've pulled the rudder and it's sitting at my house. I'm not sure what to do with it next. Casey recommends drilling a series of 3/16" holes through it to let it dry out, but I'm not sure if the rudder stock is damaged inside. Is drying it out "good enough," or should I take more drastic measures like splitting it, or building a new one, before epoxying, glassing, and fairing?

Cheers,
Phil

Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
sailingdog is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 12 Old 12-30-2007
Senior Member
 
HoffaLives's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: my mother's basement
Posts: 531
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
 
if it's never been done, i would split it. cs rudders have this problem, and ours was split and rebuilt a few years ago. rust tells you water has gotten to the ss, but you can never know the condition without having a look. prudence suggests having a look and making sure the stock or web isn't swiss cheese.

red peril
severodvinsk class russian submarine
1993
364 feet

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

our life afloat:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
HoffaLives is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 12 Old 12-30-2007
moderate?
 
camaraderie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: East Coast
Posts: 13,877
Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Rep Power: 17
     
Rusty stains mean you need to split it open and do a full repair/rebuild for safety sake.
camaraderie is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #8 of 12 Old 12-30-2007
Bristol 45.5 - AiniA
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 4,449
Thanks: 5
Thanked 118 Times in 106 Posts
Rep Power: 11
 
Age of boat?

You don't say how old your boat is, but if it is from the 70s or 80s chances are good that that webbing in the rudder is not stainless steel but carbon steel. This was the practice followed by reputable builders of the time like C&C, Tartan and Hinterhoeller and, I assume many others. I guess they thought that water could never get that far into the rudder to cause a problem. I split and rebuilt the rudder on my Niagara 35 because of rusty water coming out around the rudder shaft each winter. I tried the drying hole approach a couple of years and it did not really help.

I carefully split the rudder into two halves and removed the filler to get at the shaft and web. Had a machine shop add a stainless web to the shaft and then put the two halves together and joined the edges with wide fibreglas tape. I used WEST epoxy and aluminum filler to seal the rudder and put 5200 around the shaft to try to keep water out in future - likely to need replacement from time to time as the shaft and rudder have different expansion rates.
killarney_sailor is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #9 of 12 Old 12-30-2007 Thread Starter
"Quack, damn you."
 
pmoyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Delaware
Posts: 126
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 11
 
Send a message via AIM to pmoyer
Excellent advice everyone! Thank you. Sailingdog, you answered the question of split or not, and how to tell the next step. I appreciate it. I'll take in in my basement, dry it out with the hole method for a couple of weeks, and then split it apart. It's a thin fiberglass shell over foam, so even if I put new webbing on it, I should be able to fit it back into the shell without any troubles.

Thanks again! I'll send some pictures along when I get the project under way.

Cheers,
Phil

Phil Moyer
S/V Puddleduck
Columbia 26K
pmoyer is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #10 of 12 Old 12-30-2007
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,174
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 16
 
It's irrelevant whether the webbing is stainless - the welds are the weak point and subject to rust failure. The only way to ensure it is structurally sound is to split it and inspect/repair. The rust colored water is usually a show-stopper indication of weld failure.
k1vsk is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Water, Precious Water Michael Carr Cruising Articles 0 09-02-2004 09:00 PM
Water, Water Everywhere Tania Aebi Cruising Articles 0 06-14-2004 09:00 PM
Basic Thoughts on Tides Jim Sexton Learning to Sail Articles 0 11-17-2003 08:00 PM
Rudder Problems Mark Matthews Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 02-13-2002 08:00 PM
The Balance of Hull and Sails Steve Colgate Seamanship Articles 0 05-25-2000 09:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome