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post #1 of 20 Old 01-10-2008 Thread Starter
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Mold Removal

Does anybody have good advice for removing black mold. Its over pretty much the enitre inside.
-Techniques
-Products to use
-How to prevent it from coming back.
Any advice will help
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post #2 of 20 Old 01-10-2008
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On what type of surface(s)?

Tilex is amazingly strong on mildew and mold. The fumes are horrendous, but the results are great. Let it foam and sit. But, I would not suggest using it on cloth and I'm not sure how abrasive/toxic it would be to a wood finish.
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The answer to your last question is lots of ventilation and dehumidification.

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post #4 of 20 Old 01-10-2008
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Here are two contrasting techniques .

I typically use a mild solution of bleach mixed with baking soda...If on a wood surface - after doing so, and its dried - then make sure to re-oil / condition the wood...

-- Jody

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As people here have pointed out, a mild bleach solution is generally a good way to get rid of it. However, if the mold is on wood, you will probably need to bleach the wood with oxalic acid to get rid of the discoloration in the wood itself.

Last year, one company released a new prophylatic spray treatment that is supposed to help prevent mold and mildew, specifically designed for the marine environment. I don't remember who makes it though.

The only way to really prevent the problem is to ventilate the boat well and keep the humidity down. If you keep air flowing through the lockers and cabin, then mold has little chance to grab hold and grow.

Wiping surfaces down with vinegar will help prevent mold and help remove unwanted odors from the boat.

I would highly recommend installing solar-powered ventilators, like those designed and sold under the Nicro brand name. I have two installed on my boat, and they have helped a great deal with keeping the temperature of the boat down in the summer time.

Also, you should spend some time tracking down any leaks, since the less water that gets into the boat, the easier it is to prevent mold and mildew. Even a small leak can contribute a lot to mold and mildew problems.

Another reason to hunt down and properly repair and seal any cabin leaks, is that they are often the cause of serious boat problems, like rotting bulkheads, core delamination, etc. that are very expensive to repair if not caught early.

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http://www.traskresearch.com/impact_...structions.htm. This is the best I have ever used. Bleach can't touch it. Use with care. One gallon makes sixtyfive gallons.
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post #7 of 20 Old 01-10-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
As people here have pointed out, a mild bleach solution is generally a good way to get rid of it. However, if the mold is on wood, you will probably need to bleach the wood with oxalic acid to get rid of the discoloration in the wood itself.

Last year, one company released a new prophylatic spray treatment that is supposed to help prevent mold and mildew, specifically designed for the marine environment. I don't remember who makes it though.

The only way to really prevent the problem is to ventilate the boat well and keep the humidity down. If you keep air flowing through the lockers and cabin, then mold has little chance to grab hold and grow.

Wiping surfaces down with vinegar will help prevent mold and help remove unwanted odors from the boat.

I would highly recommend installing solar-powered ventilators, like those designed and sold under the Nicro brand name. I have two installed on my boat, and they have helped a great deal with keeping the temperature of the boat down in the summer time.

Also, you should spend some time tracking down any leaks, since the less water that gets into the boat, the easier it is to prevent mold and mildew. Even a small leak can contribute a lot to mold and mildew problems.

Another reason to hunt down and properly repair and seal any cabin leaks, is that they are often the cause of serious boat problems, like rotting bulkheads, core delamination, etc. that are very expensive to repair if not caught early.

hey dog,
(and everyone else for that matter). absent from cutting some holes in my lexan hatches, or installing one in my companionway hatches, how do you deal with the restricted airflow in many (ok..mine) dorades..i have four, but all are significantly offset and according to my yard dudes the solar vents won't help..so i have desiccant bags and containers scattered throughout the boat. i keep an oil filled heater on during the winter and a fan set to force air around the boat.
any thoughts? i like the idea of the solar vents, but how best to manage airflow with the limitations i'm faced with?

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Check out: http://www.proboat-digital.com/proboat/20071011/

Its the first on the series on ventilation....

Should be a good primer understanding what your boat may require...

-- Jody

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Sam-

You could always install fans under two of the dorades to force air out of the boat. That would effectively draw air into the boat through the other two dorades. Setting up two small 75-100 mm muffin fans, like you'd find in a computer would move a significant amount of air and run off of a 12V battery supply pretty easily.

You should also open the the lockers such inside the boat to let air circulate through those spaces as well. If you have any lockers that don't have vented or louvered doors, you should probably think about modifying the doors to fix that.

Another fan to move air around the interior of the boat wouldn't hurt.

Is your boat on a mooring, on the hard or at a slip in the water? Does it have shore power available?? If you can't leave the boat plugged in... then you might want to get the battery protectors that automatically disconnect the battery if the voltage drops too low. You might also want to get a small solar panel to help offset the juice the three or four small fans would use.

BTW, the natural airflow on most sailboats, if you have the hatches open, goes from the companionway forward to the forward hatch. If you can encourage or aid this, that is probably a good thing.

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Last edited by sailingdog; 01-10-2008 at 10:16 PM.
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Quote:
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Sam-

You could always install fans under two of the dorades to force air out of the boat. That would effectively draw air into the boat through the other two dorades. Setting up two small 75-100 mm muffin fans, like you'd find in a computer would move a significant amount of air and run off of a 12V battery supply pretty easily.

You should also open the the lockers such inside the boat to let air circulate through those spaces as well. If you have any lockers that don't have vented or louvered doors, you should probably think about modifying the doors to fix that.

Another fan to move air around the interior of the boat wouldn't hurt.

Is your boat on a mooring, on the hard or at a slip in the water? Does it have shore power available?? If you can't leave the boat plugged in... then you might want to get the battery protectors that automatically disconnect the battery if the voltage drops too low. You might also want to get a small solar panel to help offset the juice the three or four small fans would use.

dog,
i like the reverse fan idea..and could be easily wired i'm pretty sure.
she is docked w/ shore power, and all hatches, cushions, lockers, etc are set to allow for the max airflow. the fan i have, is running on 110...
thanks for the different perspective. (i would have never gotten to the reverse approach on my own.. )

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