New Teak

[kwaltersmi]

I feel dumb for asking, but...

I just purchased some new 7-loop teak handrails for my coachtop. Does anyone know if new teak comes oiled (or other)? I purchased them from Defender.

The rest of my existing exterior teak has been recently coated with Helmsman Spar Urethene. Ideally, I'd like to coat the new handrails with the same finish, but I'm not sure if they've already been treated with anything or if it's necessary.

[JohnRPollard]

Kwalt,

I doubt they've been treated with anything. But the natural oil of teak makes it hard for coatings to adhere. So you usually have to scrub the surface with a one or two part teak cleaner. Then let it dry out completely before applying your preferred coating. They'll look perty.

[Freesail99]

I would lighty sand the teak handrails, install and sand a tiny bit more and then use your Helmsman Spar Urethane. I personally prefer spar varnish as it can be touched up.

[lharmon]

Hello kwaltersmi;

Do not feel dub for asking. You should feel smart for being one of the people willing to learn.

They are unfinished. Just sand them a little and finish like you did with your other teak. They may look a little different as they have not been weathered. I usually let my teak age a bit before finishing it. I usually try to get the admiral to do that part. But she is not 100% reliable.

Good luck,

LH

[Faster]

Fresh teak has a naturally "oily" feel anyhow.... unlikely that there's anything on it already.

[sailaway21]

Do all your dry fitting of the rails before actual installation and then finish them prior to install. Teak is a naturally oily wood and it's desirable to clean it a bit with teak cleaner first to remove the surface oils and get a better adhesion of the coating. As I think I've mentioned to you before, I've found the Helmsman Spar Urethane, despite it's name, to be of poor quality for exterior use. Urethane just cannot take the UV light without breaking down. I say this from experience with the exact same product. You'd be better off with a natural spar varnish, sometimes found right next to the Helmsman at the hardware store, and you'll still get a great finish. It'll be less expensive too!

You'll probably want to use a drill press to drill the holes in the rails after a precise measuring of the existing bolt pattern. If you don't have one, or a friendly neighbor who does, just toodle on down to your local machine shop (could even be one that's part of a local auto parts store that does machine work) and nicely ask them to borrow their drill press for ten minutes. Since you brought your drill bit and countersink with you they'll probably be gracious.

[kwaltersmi]

Thanks for all great tips!

Sailaway - You're talking about using a drill press for the pilot holes, correct? I haven't set the rails on the deck yet to see if they'll fit the old holes (mostly because of the 2" of snow on the deck!), but I may end up using new holes and filling/sealing the old holes.

[sailaway21]

Pilot holes are desirable and allow you to see that they line up properly before drilling the holes to size. If you mean to secure them with screws from the inside, I would strongly caution against that idea. I believe they should be through-bolted, some match up to similar hand holds within the boat as well. If not, then backing plates should be used inside to spread the load. Screws may hold the hand rails and may be sufficient, on occasion, for their intended purpose. But there is no telling what purpose they might be put to in actual usage. There may come a time when you need to secure something to one of them in an emergency and the increased strength of through-bolting could then deliver untold dividends. I am assuming that the hand rails came without predrilled holes. But I would still advise bolting them with adequate backing plates.

[RickLaPaz]

A don't forget the hot tip for new teak/new varnish---thin the first two coats by 20--30 percent so that they penetrate well. Then full strength coats 'til your bored to tears............

[MJJ]

Originally Posted by sailaway21

You'll probably want to use a drill press to drill the holes in the rails after a precise measuring of the existing bolt pattern. If you don't have one, or a friendly neighbor who does, just toodle on down to your local machine shop (could even be one that's part of a local auto parts store that does machine work) and nicely ask them to borrow their drill press for ten minutes. Since you brought your drill bit and countersink with you they'll probably be gracious.

Bring your 409 and rag and clean up that drill press real good, as you don't want any auto grease in that shop getting on your wood. The teak oil remover mentioned may help if you do get any smudges, I dunno. Might be better to find a wood shop than a machine shop.