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  #21  
Old 01-25-2008
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Update on the Kiwi Grip

Ahoy Mates,

I did the post with pic's on the various nonskids. I talked with the guy that used the Kiwi Grip and he said is is holding up better than the Awlgrip. Again he said it was by far the easiest of any product to apply.
I bought a gallon to do my nonskid, I haven't started the job, it's been to cold here in NE Florida.
If and when I giter done I will post more pictures of the Kiwi Stuff.

Fair Winds

Cap'n Dave
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Old 01-26-2008
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Slooptattoo - Thanks for the detailed advice. I hope to just "get away with" touching up the crazing areas, with sand, once they are epoxied, as you suggested. Of course I will be painting the whole deck as well. I will see how extensive the repairs are - (how much non-stick pattern I lose), once I begin the repairs!
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Old 01-26-2008
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BTW when you do the masking - 3M now has rounded tape peel offs that are almost perfect for the rounding out of the masking... I got mine from Home Depot and saves a lot of effort of trying to bend the roll tape to fit corners...
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  #24  
Old 01-26-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artbyjody View Post
When i painted my non-skid I used the 1 part Interlux paint that contains microbeads for the non-skid...I found it a cheaper solution as I tried the two part and it ended up being a total mess....

I painted 2 layers of it and looks pretty solid...areas like the cockpit - it did rub some off with high traffic, but never got slippery...
I used INTERLUX also last month, VERY EASY roll-on..........
bought the "white" and added color to make it more tan like the original non-skid... their GREY was like "battleship gray" and the tan was too "orangey"...
so we mixed up our own color......

Very happy with the results!
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  #25  
Old 01-26-2008
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A lot of this is very dependent on the age of the boat, and the condition of the glass work. Your boat is about the age of my boat and even though my decks were painted in the mid-1990's I can only assume that the gelcoat on your decks is in similar condition to mine (and to the other boats of that age that I have seen lately). I have also looked at a number of boats on which the paint jobs failed.

I am getting ready to redo my decks and so have been researching this pretty extensively talking to a number of boat yards, paint companies and to the manufacturers of WEST System and MAS epoxy.

Here what I found, if you talk to the paint manufacturers, many of their deck paints are designed to go on without primer, if you follow thier preparation procedures. When I discussed this with a paint manufacturers at the Annapolis Boat Show that is how the discussion began. I mentioned all of the failed pain jobs that I had seen on older boats and they quickly backtracked stating that you did not need primer on newer boats with relatively fresh gelcoat but went on to say that neither primer or paint will bridge the open pores or hairline cracks found on older boats. They suggested a more comprehensive approach which started with sealing the pores with a low viscosity, slow setting epoxy which then requires a primer for proper adhesion.

If your decks are anything like the decks that I have looked at lately, if you get out a magnifying glass and look closely at your decks you will see that there is a series of open pores and nearly microscopic hair line cracks. if that is what you find then I suggest that you contact MAS epoxy. They sent me a detailed step by step aprpoach that they recommended. The reason that I suggest MAS is that their epoxies do not produce an Amine blush making preparation for the primer much easier on an irregular surface like a non-skid deck.

The boats that I saw that did not receive an epoxy sealer coat, had areas that spider cracked and even peeled within a few years.

Now I must say that in talking to boat owners who had their decks painted in the past few years, I saw two very different attitudes about painting decks. For some owners painting the decks was a a matter of routine maintenance being done quick and dirty every few years. They often did the work themself and the often were satisfied with a roll and tip paint job. For that crowd the pores and cracking was no big deal. When the decks started looking rough they simply did them again.

Then there are owners who are looking for a job that looked as good and will last as long as their original gelcoat. More often then not, they had a yard do the work. For that group the cost were much higher and careful prep work was far more easily justified.

Bit then again, of course the real question is whether or not to remove all of the hardware.

Respectfully,
Jeff
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Old 01-26-2008
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KiwiGrip is really great



I painted my decks this fall using KiwiGrip for the non-skid areas and Pettit EasyPoxy for the "skid" areas. I primed the entire deck with Pettit's High-Build primer. You can read about the primer transformation here: http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyh...-09/index.html

and about the final deck painting here: http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyh...-10/index.html

You don't necessarily need to use primer before putting down the KiwiGrip, it will go directly over existing gel-coat or paint just fine, but I had made a lot of repairs to my deck so the primer was appropriate.

The KiwiGrip went on very easily, and so far I am very happy with the results. Very grippy -- I like it! It remains to be seen how well it holds up in use, but so far I would definitely recommend it to anyone lookng for a good non-skid surface for their decks. My dealings with the North American distributor were also very positive. See Anti-skid Boat Decks from Pachena LLC - KiwiGrip anti-slip deck coating

I should note that the KiwiGrip is non-toxic and contains no volatile solvents, so a respirator is not required, although good ventilation is always important.

Regards,

Tim
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  #27  
Old 01-26-2008
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Northeaster-

You could always opt to re-gelcoat instead of paint, if the boat is in such good shape. You could probably find Gibco flex molds to match your existing non-skid and re-build up the damaged non-skid areas with their flexible molds.
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  #28  
Old 01-26-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
Bit then again, of course the real question is whether or not to remove all of the hardware.
Indeed!

My boat's decks had been painted previously, but they did not remove any of the hardware. I had major repairs to do, and it all needed re-bedding anyway, so I stripped it ALL off before painting. But that really makes it a major project.
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  #29  
Old 01-26-2008
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I painted my deck last spring and it came out fantastic. I really could not be any happier with the result.

As with any paint job, it's all in the prep. I used all Interlux products, even the solvents. I didn't want to tempt fate with some very expensive paint. If you have the option of spraying the paint, I would highly recommend it. You'll have some extra precautions that are an absolute must but I think worth it.

Prep:
Remove all hardware. Easier to remove it than to remove cured paint later. Besides, you'll get a better paint job for it. Scrub the entire deck with Solvent Wash 202. You'll be amazed at the amount of crap this stuff will pull out of the deck. Work in sections, scrub with 202 and bronze wool (NOT STEEL WOOL) then wipe down with a paper towel. When finished, start over and do it again. WEAR A RESPIRATOR (not a dust mask either) this stuff will kill you. Do not get 202 on your windows.

Grind out and fill any cracks or crazing, unwanted screw holes etc. Use an epoxy resin / filler made for this purpose. Sand smooth with a sanding block wherever possible. Using your hand for sanding leaves finger shaped grooves that will show up later. Wipe down repaired areas with 202.

Tape off the rub rail, mask the topsides with plastic, tape off any hardware that you could not remove for any reason. Tape is incredibly important. Perfection and other 2 part paints go on water thin and will crawl under Home Depot grade tapes. Even if you buy 3M tape, it's not the same adhesive at the hardware store as it is at the auto paint store. And yes, tape at the auto paint store is expensive, like 12 or 13 bucks a roll, and worth every penny. Make sure you press the edges down tight, preferably with a hard rubber roller.

Primer:
I went to a medical supplier to buy some shoe covers. They worked great for keeping dirt foot prints from finding thier way to the deck. If you are spraying 2 part paint, buy a new respirator. Even if you already have one, as they get old the rubber gets stiff and may not seal properly. A new respirator is about 40 bucks, and your life is worth more than that. I used an HVLP gun to spray the paint, bought at Cummins tools for $29. When I sprayed the last coat, I just tossed it in the trash.

Use the right primer. If painting with a 2 part paint, use the primer made specifically for that paint.

If rolling the primer, use the paint makers instructions for mixing and thinning. If spraying, you'll have to thin the paint to get a proper spray pattern. Apply a second coat of primer as soon as the first is not tacky. If the paint doesn't cure, you won't have to sand between coats.

Paint:
Mix up the paint for the areas of the deck that are not textured. Be sure to add flattening agent to the paint to keep the glare down. No need to tape off anything, just paint. You don't need to paint the non skid areas, but you don't have to worry about it if you do. 2 coats just like the primer.

More tape:
This is the fun part. I used 1/4 inch 3m blue striping tape to tape around the non skid areas. It's a bit of a trick to stretch the tape around the corners to get a smooth radius, but it's easy to get the hang of. Be careful not to stretch the tape too much as it will pull away later when you don't want it to. The tape should not be under tension. Using good quality masking tape, back tape all of the areas you don't want non skid on. Plan on 15 to 20 hours to get the non skid taped off and ready to paint. Good knee pads are your friend. Maybe some aleeve for you back.

Paint:
I used Interlux Intergrip non skid addative for my deck. Sand would have been cheaper to be sure, but sand doesn't stay suspended in the paint nor would it pass through my paint gun reliably.

I mixed the paint and flattening agent just like paint sprayed earlier, then I mixed in the Intergrip. I exceeded the recommended dosage. 6 heaping plastic spoonfuls per quart of mixed paint rings a bell, but I can't be sure. Just be sure to count spoonfuls so that subsequent mixes are the same. Let the mix stand for 20 minutes or so and mix again. If you don't let the intergrip soak, it won't stay suspended properly. Spray 2 coats as before.

As soon as the paint is tack free, pull the tape. Don't wait too long or the tape will be hard to remove. Bolt on hardware and enjoy your new paint.
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Old 01-27-2008
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Just remember if you're spraying a two-part LPU paint, you're spraying cyanide-based chemicals... and you best have the proper respiratory protection gear or you could end up DEAD.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
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her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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