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post #1 of 37 Old 01-24-2008 Thread Starter
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Paininting non-skid...

Do I really need to put a coat of epoxy primer before painting my molded non-skied deck...? I am mean cannot I just sand the non-skid them put a coat of 2 part-poly down, followed by some sand (traction), then another 2-part poly coat...?

thanks...

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post #2 of 37 Old 01-24-2008
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I'd hate to spend the time it would take to sand and paint the deck with two coats and then find out that you needed the primer when the expensive 2-part poly started to lift three weeks later. I put down primer first on our deck, with three coats of nonskid and it's lasted about five years. I'm planning to spot-cover worn spots this coming spring. The primer does nice things like filling in crazing and filling dings. The 2-part poly not only doesn't do that, it telegraphs any minor imperfection in the surface. Also, please don't forget to add flattening agent to keep the reflection down. The one thing I'd do differently is to add the maximum amount of nonskid granules suggested into the paint. It sounds like you plan to add nonskid sand using the salt-shaker method, between coats. This may not work well because 2-part poly is so thin that the relatively large grains of sand won't have much to hold them down, and the next coat may just knock them loose. 2-part poly also hardens up so fast that the sand may just bounce off by the time you get to spreading it. I was hard-pressed to even tip the paint with a brush, it hardened up so quickly.
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post #3 of 37 Old 01-24-2008 Thread Starter
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How about I shake the sand ontop of the epoxy primer...? would this work...ok...

thanks Paul for you info, I live in MIami and right now it is not so hot thank goodness...

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post #4 of 37 Old 01-24-2008
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I would suggest looking into Grip-tex, the rubber non skid additive that is meant for use with Awl-grip rather than sand. In my experience sand is difficult to apply evenly and when the paint inevitably wears away the sand is visible, leaving a "dirty looking" deck.

This stuff is available in several "grits", we used a 50/50 mixture of medium and fine. Though not the best nonskid of all time (esp right after painting) it wore into a decent finish that looked great for its uniformity. We did spray it with an inexpensive LPHV gun (the type with a blower drive rather than compressed air- made by Fuji) and a large bore nozzle. A couple of ball bearings in the paintcan helped to stir things up and keep the spray uniform.

We did use the Awlgrip primer first, though, PaulK is right about the concern that after all that effort the new coating separates because of a shortcut.

Whatever grip you add to the primer will be degraded when you paint over it, as the paint will make things less "non-skid".

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post #5 of 37 Old 01-25-2008
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When i painted my non-skid I used the 1 part Interlux paint that contains microbeads for the non-skid...I found it a cheaper solution as I tried the two part and it ended up being a total mess....

I painted 2 layers of it and looks pretty solid...areas like the cockpit - it did rub some off with high traffic, but never got slippery...

-- Jody

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post #6 of 37 Old 01-25-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artbyjody View Post
When i painted my non-skid I used the 1 part Interlux paint that contains microbeads for the non-skid...I found it a cheaper solution as I tried the two part and it ended up being a total mess....

I painted 2 layers of it and looks pretty solid...areas like the cockpit - it did rub some off with high traffic, but never got slippery...
yeah, I should have mentioned that we removed some treadmaster from the cockpit sole of our current boat, and applied the stuff that Jody mentioned... it has stood up well and is indeed an excellent non skid surface.

Waaaaay less expensive than any of the two parts, very thick, rolls out well (probably doesn't cover a lot of area/can)... but at $40 per quart it's definitely an option.

Ron

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post #7 of 37 Old 01-25-2008
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Yes

Yes you should prime!

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-Maine Sail / CS-36T


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post #8 of 37 Old 01-25-2008
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You really should prime, but I would question whether a 2-part LPU is the way you want to go for the non-skid areas.

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post #9 of 37 Old 01-25-2008
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I'm about to do the same project, and want to get the recipe straight: prime with Interlux 2000, and then paint with one-part Interlux, non-skid areas with one-part Interlux laced with Grip-tex?
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post #10 of 37 Old 01-25-2008
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Interlux Interdeck is what I was planning to use for mine deck when spring finally comes along. And I definately plan to use primer.

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