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post #11 of 22 Old 01-28-2008 Thread Starter
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This is great stuff, thanks for the replies and leads on accumulator tanks, it isn't as simple as I thought, the water heater issue was good to know too, Thanks Stan, I would have never thought of that.

I thought that being that I pump FROM the tank and TO the fixtures, simply increase volume drawn would increase the volume out ( I hoped ).

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post #12 of 22 Old 01-28-2008 Thread Starter
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One last question, What would be the advantage of a 2 gal over a 1 liter Acc. tank of better yet why would I need or want a 2 gal acc tank

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post #13 of 22 Old 01-28-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poopdeckpappy View Post
This is great stuff, thanks for the replies and leads on accumulator tanks, it isn't as simple as I thought.....
I think it's more simple than you thought. An accumulator tank costs under $50. It takes about 15 min., a sharp blade, a few hose clamps, and the right place to mount. The accumulator draws no power, and it's (cough cough) "maint. free".

Buying a bigger pump would have been harder and costlier.

Here is a pic I found of typical install diagram


Dictated, but not read.

Last edited by Sapperwhite; 01-28-2008 at 04:28 PM.
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post #14 of 22 Old 01-28-2008
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One last question, What would be the advantage of a 2 gal over a 1 liter Acc. tank of better yet why would I need or want a 2 gal acc tank
A larger accumulator has more capacity to keep pressure on the system, it will keep the fresh water pump cycles down. However, to pump the system back up to normal pressure the pump may run a little longer when it does come on. If you get a bigger accumulator you may just need that bigger pump after all if you don't want the pump running for a whole minute just to get the system back up to pressure.

You may prefer stainless to plastic accumulator (or the other way around). Space to install a larger tank may be a consideration too. Cost considerations come with quality and material (as always). There are a few manufactures out there also: shurflo, jabsco, grocco, and a few others.

My system is small and simple, I only need a small accumulator, a small pump, and a small water heater. If you have an elaborate system or maybe a few people using it at the same time (washing dishes while you shower), you may need bigger components.

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post #15 of 22 Old 01-28-2008 Thread Starter
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Thanks again Sapper

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post #16 of 22 Old 01-28-2008
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You might want to look into using a variable speed pump that operates with a pressure sensor to control pump output based on how much water is being demanded (Jabsco and Shurflo make them). They're a bit more expensive (about $75-100 more) but they eliminate the need for the accumulator tank. You do have to be careful of water consumption, however, as they can operate at fairly high pressures. I installed one several years ago when I got a water filter/purifier (Sea Gull IV) that required more pressure than the old PAR (with an accumulator tank) would put out. I've had both Shurflo and Jabsco pumps on the boat -- the Shurflo Smart Sensor was replaced twice (on warranty) and I now have a Jabsco that works well. One disadvantage (aside from price) is that they are fairly quiet -- if you spring a leak somewhere, as we did once, you can end up with a bilge full of fresh water pretty quickly. Shurflo has a modification you can install that will light an LED when the pump is operating.
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post #17 of 22 Old 01-28-2008
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One thing to note: Do not use copper or other rigid (pvc etc) to connect... use the clear tubing as they absorb more of the impact and will not strain as much under pressure (and its cheaper too)....clear is great because you can determine by looking when the tubing is failing or if the water is getting too dirty etc...

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post #18 of 22 Old 01-28-2008
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For someone like Christyleigh who had too much pressure, you can get pressure regulators to lower the system pressure before any devices such as the hot water tank. In this case I would put the accumulator tank (thanks JohnRPollard) after the pump but before the pressure regulator maintaining a reserve of higher pressure water. These are passive spring loaded devices.

I thought I would mention it because it could save somebody else from buying a new pump. I paid about $30 for one at a supply house not too long ago.

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post #19 of 22 Old 01-28-2008
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You really want to make sure that you've got a small accumulator tank in the system, since that will do far more to reducing the pump short-cycling. The larger the accumulator tank, the more even the water pressure will be and the more able the system will be to handle high-demand loads.

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post #20 of 22 Old 01-30-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artbyjody View Post
One thing to note: Do not use copper or other rigid (pvc etc) to connect... use the clear tubing as they absorb more of the impact and will not strain as much under pressure (and its cheaper too)....clear is great because you can determine by looking when the tubing is failing or if the water is getting too dirty etc...

One of the problems with clear water tube is that light lets algae grow in the tube, which is not good for the 'flavor' of the water.
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