Crimping versus Soldering - Page 10

sailingdog · #91 02-29-2008

Rhedrick-

You shouldn't be using a spade connector on a boat, unless it has the upturned ends. Electrical terminals on a boat are supposed to be captive, which is why ring terminals are generally used, except where the screws are captive, and then spade terminals with the upturned tips are used instead.

rhedrick · #92 02-29-2008

Boy, you guys are brutal. Of course I use the safety spades - that is why I mentioned "marine" store when buying connectors - I don't go to the local five and dime. So, I stand by my method. Hey guys, I built my boat from a bare hull. I have sailed it extensively and have never had a problem with any electrical install. And vibration, ok, ok, you get vibration but how many times do you fall off a wave?

My original response was to the posting regarding the problem with the gap on a heat shrink, which might have let moisture in - I offered a suggestion that might help and which works. I am outa here.

Maine Sail · #93 02-29-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhedrick

Boy, you guys are brutal. Of course I use the safety spades - that is why I mentioned "marine" store when buying connectors - I don't go to the local five and dime. So, I stand by my method. Hey guys, I built my boat from a bare hull. I have sailed it extensively and have never had a problem with any electrical install. And vibration, ok, ok, you get vibration but how many times do you fall off a wave?

My original response was to the posting regarding the problem with the gap on a heat shrink, which might have let moisture in - I offered a suggestion that might help and which works. I am outa here.

Not trying to be brutal to you at all but just trying to clarify things for the hundreds of folks that will come across this thread in the future who don't know the difference between a captive a and a non captive spade. As in the spades discussion I figured you used captive spades building your Westsail but others may not know the difference.

I'm only critical about these issues because I've spent considerable time with a friend, who is a surveyor, in many bilges, and seen tens to hundreds of dangerous installation issues including fractured wires and melted wire jackets due to poor connections and not just with electrical but dangerous plumbing and mechanical installs too.

SD, myself and fa few others here take safety and the advice relating to it seriously and always try and clarify on the side of safety that's all.... Please don't take it personally we did not mea to offend at all..

P.S. Try to find an AMP or FTZ distributor and you'll pay a full third what you pay for Ancor connectors at WM or most chandleries.

For FTZ it's best to track down their local rep and they can tell you who sells them in the area..

Cruisingdad · #94 02-29-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhedrick

Boy, you guys are brutal. Of course I use the safety spades - that is why I mentioned "marine" store when buying connectors - I don't go to the local five and dime. So, I stand by my method. Hey guys, I built my boat from a bare hull. I have sailed it extensively and have never had a problem with any electrical install. And vibration, ok, ok, you get vibration but how many times do you fall off a wave?

My original response was to the posting regarding the problem with the gap on a heat shrink, which might have let moisture in - I offered a suggestion that might help and which works. I am outa here.

Hey, don't take any of it personal. It is a good discussion back and forth. Remember you cannot inflect tone in an email/thread/writing. I am certain they mean nothing personal.

This has been a much better thread than what I anticipated. Good to have everyones input.

- CD

sailingdog · #95 02-29-2008

Rhedrick-

I don't see my post as being brutal... you didn't specify that you were using safety spades, instead of normal spades, and neither Halekai or I can read minds...

thekeip · #96 02-29-2008

Actually, ABYC shows a picture of another type of captive spade, where the forks of the spade are formed into a 'C' shape. I can't remember ever seeing such in commercial service.
If you must use spade terminals, bend the tips of the forks; otherwise, use rings.
Howard Keiper
Sea Quest
Berkeley

camaraderie · #97 02-29-2008

C'mon you guys...you can do it...give me 100 posts on how to crimp a friggen wire!!

sailingdog · #98 02-29-2008

Cam, can you please keep it on topic... after all, you are a moderator and should be setting a good example for us mere mortals.

Keip-

Can you post a photo of the "c-clip" type terminals, as I don't think I've seen one.

sailaway21 · #99 02-29-2008

The topic expired about seven pages ago.

rhedrick · #**100** 02-29-2008

Ok guys, I am over my angst. I understand - my interest is also in contributing to a full discussion of what works and what doesn't. I find these posts most educational, really. I hope to be able to contribute more in the future. Having built the Rhino (a Westsail 32) twice (I didn't get enough abuse the first time) and over a total period of 17 years (what? we don't live forever), I may be able to offer some advice as I do know a little bit about boat building (yeah, I can hear it now "a LITTLE bit"). And, I also accept the fact that I probably know more about boat building versus sailing although I think I can handle my own in the second (hey, it was gusting to 30 knots off Riaetea heading for Huahine and on the horizon, the SQUALL. With my -now - wife sitting in the cockpit of a totally unfamilar charter boat clutching the tiller in a death grip and yelling at me as I was frantically putting in the second reef , "YOU READ THE BOOKS, WHAT DO WE DO NOW?")- how sad. Anyway, I digress, thanks for the response. (I know, I know, I'm gabby.)