Crimping versus Soldering - Page 21 - SailNet Community
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post #201 of 286 Old 03-30-2010
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Maybe it depends upon your tolerance for failure. If you are confident that the soldered and shrink wrapped connection is sturdy and won't fail, then leave it be. If you think it might fail and the VHF is important to you, maybe its worth redoing. The marine environment is much harsher for electrical than most people realize.

The hardest part about redoing it is probably getting to the wires, depending upon your boat. Using the proper crimp tool and butt connectors is really easy. They are worth the money, you'll use them often, although I agree the connector seems to cost an outrageous amount of money for what they are.

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Last edited by jarcher; 03-30-2010 at 12:10 PM.
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post #202 of 286 Old 03-30-2010
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"THERE ARE NO ELECTRICIANS AT SEA."
sd, haven't you ever heard of....

...The Solder Fairy ?!
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post #203 of 286 Old 03-30-2010 Thread Starter
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Ok, I have said this before and will say it again: do not solder on boats, people.

B oat are not houses. They vibrate. The vibration works a crack in the solder. The crack causes heat (and corrosion if not heat shrinked). The heat causes more resistance. The resistance causes more heat... and it turn into a vicious cycle.

I posted a lot of pics on Sailnet about 2 years ago as we pulled a lot of wiring off of dads boat (a tayana 42). Tayana makes very good boats, but the previous owner was a firm believer in solder. All of the solder joints, especially those outside of the cabin, were either corroded, failed, or on the way to failing. THe wires on those showed heat failure on the wires and the casing.

None, zero, zilch of the Tayana original crimps showed failure, though the ones on the outside (none of it was tinned wire) showed corrosion on the copper wire. Also of interest was that none of the copper (again non-tinned) wire on the interior showed corrosion unless it was soldered.

Crimp everything. Heat shirink the areas that are exposed to sea spray. Use tinned wire everywhere - though I personally believe you do not have to down below in protected areas. I think it verges on a waste of money down below as none of it showed corrosion after 20 years. If you use non-tinned wire on the outside in a salty environment, it will corrode. If you solder anywhere on the boat, it will fail, eventually.

I am not trying to act like an expert on this. I am not. But I have owned and been on enough boats over the years to give you a factual account and real life experiences. Ande as I mentioned above, and I know this drives Mainesail an dothers crazy, but I am not convinced you have to use tinned wire down below in most applications (bilge areas and wet areas the exception). We noticed no difference between the two.

My thoughts...

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post #204 of 286 Old 03-30-2010
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No, I haven't. Is that when you dress up in a pink tutu and tights, and wear a fake set of wings and go sailing and helping boats in distress???

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Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
"THERE ARE NO ELECTRICIANS AT SEA."
sd, haven't you ever heard of....

...The Solder Fairy ?!

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Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
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post #205 of 286 Old 03-30-2010
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Place your bets. Which thread will be longer? This one or "Cruising with Bulldogs."


Crimps and adhesive heatshrink with the proper tools 100% of the time.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
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Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
Place your bets. Which thread will be longer? This one or "Cruising with Bulldogs."


Crimps and adhesive heatshrink with the proper tools 100% of the time.
The better bet is which on ewill get more heated!! (No pun intended).

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post #207 of 286 Old 03-30-2010
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sd-
"Is that when you dress up in a pink tutu and tights," No no, you've got me confused with Vin Diesel in The Tooth Fairy. We're dopplegangers, that happens a lot.

Brian-
"The vibration works a crack in the solder." Not the vibration, but the result of folks ignoring "every" spec for soldering wires, that says the wire must be solidly affixed so it can't move and work-harden the solder joint, which then fails. The vibration won't hurt a thing, IF there's a proper job done of making sure the solder is't being flexed.
Not that I'm saying solder is always the right way to go, but I suspect a boat sees less "vibration" than a car does, and I know solder joints in cars with 100,000 road miles on them, with a vibrating engine and road vibration all the way. And, no problem on the solder joints.
I've also seen a ZapStop protection diode on a boat alternator, where literally both wires coming out of the diode have broken off because the installer simply taped it over and left it to vibrate and flex in free space, causing the vibration to focus on the diode body and snap it clean off the leads.

And then there are some terminations that simply have to be soldered, i.e. to contacts and pins that simply can't be crimped onto.
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post #208 of 286 Old 03-30-2010
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As stated about 100 posts ago, ABYC doesn't allow solder to be the only connection. Crimp or crimp and solder but crimping is a must.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
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post #209 of 286 Old 03-30-2010
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Send a message via Skype™ to slowpoke
re solder jpint

maybe you should rosin core solder instead of acid core
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post #210 of 286 Old 03-30-2010
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this thread

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Originally Posted by Cruisingdad View Post
The better bet is which on will get more heated!!
Brian
How about working in something about guns on board? From what I've read, combining firearms and crimp-vs-solder should set some kind of record.
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