Crimping versus Soldering

[Sundownsailing]

Properly sized heatshrink tubing with a properly crimped marine grade ring terminal is my vote. (I will also investigate the ratcheting crimping tool)

[btrayfors]

In a properly executed crimp, there's nothing to fill.

A good ratchet crimper, like the Greenlee series, creates a solid mass of copper inside the lug. If you cut one in half with a hack saw, you'll see nothing but solid copper. Looks like a solid copper rod.

I'd post a pic, but I hate the Sailnet pic posting routine. WHY CANT THEY FIX IT, like Cruiser's Forum or SSCA???

Anyway, adhesive heat shrink is faster and makes a good waterproof connection. The liquid stuff is very messy.

Bill

[btrayfors]

OK, here you go. I put the pix on my website.

Click, "next" at the bottom right to progress thru the series.

Bill

DSC_0024c

[deniseO30]

Cool.. could pass for a soldered joint! So very tight that the wire will eventually flex at the end of the connector and strands will break. (here we go again) lol I still like solder. only because I have so much soldering equipment on hand from many years in the hvac trade.
I really like the solder pellets the Genuine deals sells.
And here we have the HF tools

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by btrayfors

OK, here you go. I put the pix on my website.

Click, "next" at the bottom right to progress thru the series.

Bill

DSC_0024c

You mean this:



Just use this feature

and paste your image location into the pop up box being sure not to duplicate http://...


And here's some more pics...

[Ray Drummond]

hi;
suggestion;
ever thought about doing both? works real good.
capt.Ray

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by Ray Drummond

hi;
suggestion;
ever thought about doing both? works real good.
capt.Ray

Has been discussed at length, in this thread...

[tom_beckstedt]

I'm working on my cal 25 just bought , had some ground ishews found the problems were crimp conectors not properly crimped or viberation, I see a lot of this in the automotive industry over the past 35 years.
The reason that a wire might break before or after a solder joint is when soldering your getting the wire to hot witch causes the wire to get brittle. Here is what I use solderseal but splice conectors you can buy at Amazon. All you need to due is heat it up with a heat gun, it solders and seals it all in one. you can buy a heat gun at harbor freight for 14dollors.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by tom_beckstedt

I'm working on my cal 25 just bought , had some ground ishews found the problems were crimp conectors not properly crimped or viberation, I see a lot of this in the automotive industry over the past 35 years.
The reason that a wire might break before or after a solder joint is when soldering your getting the wire to hot witch causes the wire to get brittle. Here is what I use solderseal but splice conectors you can buy at Amazon. All you need to due is heat it up with a heat gun, it solders and seals it all in one. you can buy a heat gun at harbor freight for 14dollors.

And products like those are why the ABYC prohibits solder as the sole means of mechanical connection... Please be careful...

Remember that solder is engineered to be flowing a temps below the burning of plastic. This means in a high resistance situation your solder can melt BEFORE the jacket lights on fire and release the wire so you now have a live dangling hot wire to short out on something. If using those I would not recommend pushing your fusing to the wires max ampacity for OCP.