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Crimping versus Soldering

117K views 285 replies 73 participants last post by  desert rat 
#1 ·
I am not trying to bring up another very heated argument on this board, but I would like to tell anyone still soldering that almost without exception, EVERY soldered joint on the V-42 we have is corroding and failing. It may have taken close to 20 years to do it, but we did not find these issues on ANY of the crimped joints... NONE.

If that is not a first hand testimonial to crimp over solder, I do not know what is.

- CD
 
#269 ·
Thankyou VSTatia and Maine Sail.... I really appreciate your input and experience... I am going to buy the Pro's Kit..... It looks like a very nice piece for the price.... Im sure that I will be very happy with it... I use the 3M connectors... Ive read that they are not quite a thick (the copper barrel) as the Ancor connectors, but I have inherited about 1500 connectors and I hate not to use them... They are tinned and seamless..I hope they are a good quality connector.... Maybe not quite as good as the Ancor connectors, but still a quality connector.... They seem to do pretty well... I just hope they take the beating that a boat gives them.... Thanks guys...
 
#270 ·
As stranded wire tends to wick water along its full length over time. Letting the solder wick under the insulation, then soaking the end with liquid electrical tape, seals the end much better. That is why I prefer solid single strand wire, below decks ,which I have had zero problem with over the last 28 years. Most stranded wire I've pulled out of boats was corroded and turned black over its entire length. One guy on another site said his solid wire is in perfect condition after 45 years, something I've never seen stranded wire do.
Solid wire has problems outside, when the insulation and vibration break it down. Black insulation is far more UV resistant.
 
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#271 ·
Hey Brent... I agree with you that the black is much better with UV.... The same holds true with zip ties, zippers and thread on any canvas work.... I have and industrial sewing machine and do all of my own canvas work.... I use only black thread and zippers.... and dont use nylon in the sun.... Poly does much, much better in the sun that nylon...
 
#277 ·
Maine Sail, I hope I dont upset you here.... But if you had to pick a crimper that is made specifically for heat shrink connectors, and nothing else.... What would you say is the absolute very best one... Money no object.... Not the T-head, but one made just for Heat shrink.... Is there any that stands above the rest? I hope Im not being annoying... Thanks Joe
 
#280 ·
OK!! OK!! I hearyou guy's but 40 years later my properly soldered terminals conduct better and have never failed me. Although properly crimped terminels work fine too.
I'm probably dealimg with a lot larger guage wire on a powe boat working with Cat. and Detroit Diesel's and I'm also open minded about things that work well. Pick and choose your choice,
 
#282 ·
I have added dipping the end of the wire into dielectric (silicon) grease or squeezing a small amount into each end of the crimp / splice; on the notion that it keeps water and corrosion out as a secondary defense; in addition to the other good ideas before this. It's easy and quick-may do nothing more than make me feel better?
 
#283 · (Edited)
Dialectric grease is an insulator. I don't think it's advisable to dip the wires in it before crimping. Squeezing it in afterward may be helpful except if you have adhesive lined heat shrink, in which case it seems like it would prevent a good bond.
 
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