Seacock / Thruhull Replacement quote

CLucas · #1 (**permalink**) 02-20-2008

Confession time... I'm a DIY-guy to a point, but am not comfortable when it comes to holes in the boat. I've read tons of material on the topic, including some great posts by people on this board on the topic (Halekai for one), but at the end of the day have decided this is something I'm going to bring in hired help for. My club is largely a DIY place, but many people do bring in help for major projects. My Pearson 30 is a great boat and I'm in the process of a thorough refit. My biggest headache right now... nearly every one of my tapered seacocks are frozen or covered in blue-green corrosion which scares the crap out of me. Pearson had some messed up construction practices... They had the incredibly bad idea of using a gate valve at the raw water intake (fully operational, but there's that recurring nightmare of it coming off in my hand...) and not using backing plates any place else. Now that you've fallen out of your chair in horror, my question...

I have a guy - who I trust and I believe is up to the job -- coming to look at the boat tomorrow to give me an estimate. Assuming replacement of the seacock alone, how many hours would you estimate for this job (per seacock). What if the thruhull also needed to be replaced (I assume it will).

Freesail99 · #2 (**permalink**) 02-20-2008

First off, there is a nut 180 degrees from the handle, if you losen that nut the handle should be able to move freely. You may want to try that first.

I replaced two seacocks on my boat, took an average of 45 minutes and I did replace the backing plates.

sailingfool · #3 (**permalink**) 02-20-2008

I don't think this is a job where board members can provide an estimate for your boat, the effort involved will vary wildly depending the on ease of access, the difficulty of removing the old valves, any need to remove/add backing plates, etc.

CLucas · #4 (**permalink**) 02-20-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailingfool

I don't think this is a job where board members can provide an estimate for your boat, the effort involved will vary wildly depending the on ease of access, the difficulty of removing the old valves, any need to remove/add backing plates, etc.

I'm just looking for ballpark -- in part so my breath isn't taken away when I get the estimate. Part of the challenge is that they are incredibly difficult to access for the purpose of attempting to unseize them (2 in particular). Once operational, access will just be a little awkward.

CLucas · #5 (**permalink**) 02-20-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Freesail99

First off, there is a nut 180 degrees from the handle, if you losen that nut the handle should be able to move freely. You may want to try that first.

I replaced two seacocks on my boat, took an average of 45 minutes and I did replace the backing plates.

Thanks.

On one, I was able to loosen the nut after hitting it with PB Blaster and letting it sit. Using a mallet, I wasn't able to drive the tapered plug out and was reluctant to put too much torque on it. On others, the access is impossible to be able to get a mallet in for the purpose of free-ing it up.

Freesail99 · #6 (**permalink**) 02-20-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by CLucas

Thanks.

On one, I was able to loosen the nut after hitting it with PB Blaster and letting it sit. Using a mallet, I wasn't able to drive the tapered plug out and was reluctant to put too much torque on it. On others, the access is impossible to be able to get a mallet in for the purpose of free-ing it up.

Why do you have a tampered plug in the seacock ? Has it completely failed and is letting in water ?

This nut would be on the other side of the secock opposite from the handle.

CLucas · #7 (**permalink**) 02-20-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Freesail99

Why do you have a tampered plug in the seacock ? Has it completely failed and is letting in water ?

This nut would be on the other side of the secock opposite from the handle.

Tapered, not tampered.

These are older style seacocks from more commonplace ball valves. Spartan still makes them (http://spartanmarine.com/image/25.jpg). Here's an exploded diagram of one:

Freesail99 · #8 (**permalink**) 02-20-2008

My spell check program changed Tapered to tampered and I didn't catch it.

sailingdog · #9 (**permalink**) 02-20-2008

SF's points about the estimates being pretty boat specific is a good one. The job isn't all that difficult to do, and anyone with a modicum of skill and Halekai's graphic guide to doing the job can do it. Most people can probably replace two of them with the proper preparation and tools in the course of a weekend, even if new backing plates need to be installed.

craigtoo · #10 (**permalink**) 02-20-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by CLucas

Tapered, not tampered.

These are older style seacocks from more commonplace ball valves. Spartan still makes them (http://spartanmarine.com/image/25.jpg). Here's an exploded diagram of one:

Hello,

I had the same problem on my boat. 5 of my 6 SeaCocks were frozen. They are the Spartan type you referenced above.

I would offer one suggestion before you bring your guy in. Loosen the nuts on the opposite side of the handle. Plug the hole in the hull with rags / stopper. Pour some vegtable oil in the line (if possible, in my case these were the cockpit drain THulls) and let it sit / soak the Seacock for a few hours. That may free them up. Once free clean and service etc.

I had to contort my body into positions that I never thought possible. But I was able to free all SeaCocks.

Good Luck,
Craig