Proper Crimping = STRONG! (crimp vs. solder) - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 63 Old 02-24-2008 Thread Starter
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Proper Crimping = STRONG!

Hi all,

I'm in the process of writing another article for my web site and thought I post a couple of photos that might be an eye opener for some. While I was not surprised by this I'm going to guess some will be.

I used an adhesive lined heat shrink butt connector and a two lengths of 10ga marine grade UL listed tinned wire. To make the crimp I used a pair of Ancor Marine ratcheting crimper's that are specifically designed for crimping heat shrink connectors. The crimpers are model #702010 and can be seen here: Ancor Heat Shrink Crimper

I wanted to show how strong properly executed crimps are, for the many who doubt the strength. I decided the best way to show the strength would be to hang a couple of my anchors (my Rocna and my Super Max) from the crimped butt connector. These two anchors weigh in at close to 70lbs..

I think the photos speak for them selves.

The Crimp:

The Connection:

The Strength:

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-Maine Sail / CS-36T


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Last edited by Maine Sail; 03-04-2008 at 05:37 PM.
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post #2 of 63 Old 02-24-2008
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That's impressive! I'm a believer. Thanks for posting the photos.
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post #3 of 63 Old 02-24-2008 Thread Starter
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Ok, I stepped it up!!!

I just went out to the barn and dug out a couple more anchors!

This photo shows the same crimp as above but this time with FOUR anchors a Rocna 33, Super Max 35, Spade A-80 (15lbs) and a Fortress FX-16 (10lbs).

This crimped connector is holding about a 93 lbs. of static load!


P.S. You can not execute a proper & strong crimp with cheap crimper's hardware store grade crimper's...

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post #4 of 63 Old 02-24-2008
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Halekai, seeing the state of tidyness and readiness in which you keep your boat made me think you were a "details guy", but this is experimental data of the first order. Thanks for broadening my perspectives.
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post #5 of 63 Old 02-24-2008
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I think it's important to note that strength of the connection and it's electrical properties can be mutually exclusive. Certainly, doing both doesn't hurt but simply looking at the strength of the connection is not a good indicator of anything, particularly the integrity of the electrical bond or it's water resistance.
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post #6 of 63 Old 02-24-2008
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halekai,
It's really winter, isn't it? (g)

I've said elsewhere, but will repeat again, I've pulled sixty pound submersible well pumps out of the well from a depth of 150' on the pump wire, 12Gg., alone. The motor leads are attached to the pump wire via sta-cons and shrink tubing similar to that seen in halekai's photos. And that pulling involves dynamic loading of the splice, not just static loading. And those sta-cons are crimped using just Klein pliers.

I can see why some might prefer the clear shrink tubing, but I prefer the heavy wall black myself. You'll not find the heavy wall at WM or any other marine outlet I've seen.

If you are looking for quality at a good price, you can find the crimp sta-cons and the heavy wall black, as well as the clear, at a well-drilling supply house. The clear often comes in packs of three pre-cut pieces with three sta-cons and will run you about $2.50 retail per pack. The heavy wall black comes in 1 foot lengths or longer at about $4 the foot, retail. Prices do vary widely depending on supplier, so it's worth checking. Sta-con's can be bought for about $5 the hundred.

If you want to make a splice of similar nature, but not use heat, you can purchase "re-usable" shrink tubing that is silicone impregnated. Not all well-drilling supply houses carry it. It has the appearance of the normal shrink tubing upon completion, but does not require shrinking to fit. While initially quite sceptical of it, I found it works quite well, although I've never re-used it. At the cost involved in pulling a pump, it's just not sensible to gain such experience at a customer's possible expense.

Bear in mind that these splices I make are on submersible pumps and they spend their life completely submerged with anything from ten feet to two hundred feet of water over them. I pull them out every day after thirty years of submergence and still doing fine. I'd be lieing if I didn't tell you though, that you can make as good a splice with a sta-con and three wraps of Scotch 88 electrical tape. It will be significantly longer and takes practise and skill to properly execute. It's what we used to use before shrink tube came along.

A great post and practical demonstration, halekai! Now quit fooling around and get the driveway shovelled out! (a vbg)

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post #7 of 63 Old 02-24-2008
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Halekai ...How about a dynamic test with Sway tying said wire around his neck and jumping off something about 8 ft. high?

No longer posting. Reach me by PM!
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post #8 of 63 Old 02-24-2008
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Thanks for the great lesson. Pictures are worth a thousand words and you have drummed the need for crimped splices into my head. Now I have to buy the crimpers.

Thanks for a great post and taking the time to share.

LH

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Quote:
Originally Posted by lharmon View Post
Pictures are worth a thousand words and you have drummed the need for crimped splices into my head. Now I have to buy the crimpers.LH
These are the crimper's I use. These crimper's are designed specifically for use with marine grade heat shrink terminals. They will not damage the heat shrink and will yield a very, very strong, cold formed, crimp. This pair is distributed by Ancor Products and are called the "Single Crimp Ratchet Tool" Part No. 702010. I paid about $55.00 for this crimper at Hamilton Marine in Portland, Maine.

Use these:

Not crimper's like these:

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Last edited by Maine Sail; 02-24-2008 at 08:19 PM.
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post #10 of 63 Old 02-24-2008
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Halekai-

What you really want is the Ancor 702015 Double Crimp tool, not the one you're using. The main difference is that the 702015 has two sets of crimping jaws, one for the wire and one for the insulation strain relief. The one you are using, the Ancor 702010 only has a single set of jaws.


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