I need to replace the cutlass bearing on my 1983 Ericson E28+. I'd like to do so without removing the shaft, removing the prop instead. (Yes, I plan to use a puller to get the prop itself off.) I can then use a bearing removal tool to press out the bearing and replace it. To remove the prop I need to remove a nut that holds it in place on the shaft. Does anyone have any tips for keeping the shaft from turning while I loosen that nut? I'm anticipating that the nut is on there pretty tight.
Jam a block of wood between the blade of the prop and the hull. Try to set things up so you have a largish base against the hull for loading, rather than an edge.
Some heat on the nut would help too.
__________________ Boating in BC waters since the '60s, sailing since 1981. Currently on our 5th boat, a 1984 Fast/Nicholson 345.
Run a length of 2X2 between the strut and the rudder to stop the prop from turning. Also, you will not need to heat the nut(s). They will come off with a little elbow grease and an 18" pipe wrench.
__________________
"Clean bottoms are FastBottoms"
Also, if you use a puller, to remove the prop - Be carefull not to crush the end of the shaft, where the cotter pin goes, as the puller will push hard at that point. I should have put a nail, or something to take up the void space, as I ended up collapsing the hole. I then had to cut a bit off the shaft end, and redrill a new hole for a cotter pin - And there wasn't much room left to do this!
Putting a nut over the end threads will prevent the puller from crushing the cotter pin hole, yet should still leave you enough room to pull the prop free.
__________________
Sailingdog Telstar 28
New England
You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this POST.
In addition, if the prop is "stuck" on, leaving the nut on with some slack will prevent the prop and puller from flying off the shaft at a high rate of knots when it finally lets go. (good idea to stand to the side) Don't ask how I know.......
Loading up the puller and giving the (protected) end of the shaft a sharp tap can often break the prop loose.
__________________ Boating in BC waters since the '60s, sailing since 1981. Currently on our 5th boat, a 1984 Fast/Nicholson 345.
I take it Faster doesn't describe your duck reflexes....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster
In addition, if the prop is "stuck" on, leaving the nut on with some slack will prevent the prop and puller from flying off the shaft at a high rate of knots when it finally lets go. (good idea to stand to the side) Don't ask how I know.......
Loading up the puller and giving the (protected) end of the shaft a sharp tap can often break the prop loose.
__________________
Sailingdog Telstar 28
New England
You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this POST.
(no bruises)
Linear Mode
