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  #41  
Old 12-27-2011
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Looking for more detail than the factory manual offers in terms of carburetor disasembly if anyone cares to share their experiences. How can you throughly clean the carb body in normal carburetor cleaner dip if you cannot remove the plastic parts first? Do any readers have experience with having removed the idle jet under the sealed brass plug? Don't say "manual" please. The manual setting in front of me is full of specifications (which are needed) but short on techniques (as are most 'factory' manuals).

I did a search on ethanol free gasoline and most posters indicate that anything greater than 10% ethanol content plays havoc with our small engines and there are some who claim that even 10% content is damaging. Hard to quantify this but many local operators of small outboards are aware of the issues of 'old' gasoline. Most don't use ethanol-free gas which I have recently found to be available nearby.
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Old 12-27-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamondjet View Post
pvan1.....do you remove the plastic parts prior to carb dip? I found the manual did not refer to this and the plastic parts don't just 'pop' off. The choke butterfly appears to be press fit in a slot on the intake side and the levers for both throttle and choke are apparently press fit on pins. Is that the way it is??
The plastic actuators stay on. The procedure is a full disassembly, including jets and emulsion tube nozzle. All non-rubber/non-gasket stuff goes into the dip basket for 4 hours at room temp. Then an aggressive spray out with generic carb spray. Then careful reassembly, verifying float settings.
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  #43  
Old 12-27-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dabnis View Post
Berryman's B-12 fuel additive "absorbes" the water and it goes out the exhaust. No affiliation, it just works for me for many years, no fuel related problems during that time. Suggest reading the instructions, it can melt paint and some plastics, good stuff!!, they will probably ban it in California soon, it works that well.

Dabnis
Not chemically possible, unless it is an alcohol- or soap-type emulsifier. VooDoo doesn't help much, either. Stabilizer slows the fuel rotting, but not much else.
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  #44  
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GREETINGS EARTHLINGS sounds like your treating the symtoms and not the curse it must need an extra fuel fillter if there is space for it GO SAFE
Negative. The Tohatsu filter is 10 microns. If contaminated or clogged, replace it. If you have a remote tank, a water-separator filter is a good idea. In any event, a baja-type filter funnel is never a bad idea. Start with clean, fresh fuel, and keep it that way.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamondjet View Post
I'll replace fuel filter and try it. Idling is poor on both my '05 Nissan 4hp and 2001 Tohatsu 5hp. Nissan just got the carb and new fuel filter. Tohatsu in my shop now. BTW...............How important is ethanol free gasoline?
If you can avoid the E gas, cool. If not, be religious in using only clean, fresh fuel. Always run the carb dry at the end of each day, and enjoy many years of clean carb.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamondjet View Post
Looking for more detail than the factory manual offers in terms of carburetor disasembly if anyone cares to share their experiences. How can you throughly clean the carb body in normal carburetor cleaner dip if you cannot remove the plastic parts first? Do any readers have experience with having removed the idle jet under the sealed brass plug? Don't say "manual" please. The manual setting in front of me is full of specifications (which are needed) but short on techniques (as are most 'factory' manuals).

I did a search on ethanol free gasoline and most posters indicate that anything greater than 10% ethanol content plays havoc with our small engines and there are some who claim that even 10% content is damaging. Hard to quantify this but many local operators of small outboards are aware of the issues of 'old' gasoline. Most don't use ethanol-free gas which I have recently found to be available nearby.
The factory manuals are primarily written for mechanics, so the authors expect you to have some carb repair skills already. It is possible, but not recommended, to remove the EPA-mandated plug to access the pilot screw. Very difficult to re-set that correctly in the field. I have done it in the controlled conditions of the shop, with the aid of precise shop instruments and a very good ear. Don't bother. After a bath in carb dip, and a blow-out with generic carb spray, you should be fine.

No outboards of any make are designed for more than 10% ethanol, nor more than 5% methanol. In addition to "cleaning" out the delivery network before you buy it (the cleaned stuff becomes part of the fuel, yuck), E gas dries a lot of rubbers and absorbs water from the air. Eventually that water can separate, causing corrosion in the lower areas of anything metal in the fuel system.
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Thanks........that's some good information! I've got an extra carb body now to experiment with and so time to work with. I'll post results.
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Old 12-27-2011
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i had the same problem with a motor i barrowed from a freind it wouldn't run unless choke was on. so i just ran it like that and it ran perfect.
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Originally Posted by smallboatlover View Post
i had the same problem with a motor i barrowed from a freind it wouldn't run unless choke was on. so i just ran it like that and it ran perfect.
And you could run a motor with a rod knock, as long as you wear ear muffs. But that is not how it was intended to operate.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pvanv1 View Post
Not chemically possible, unless it is an alcohol- or soap-type emulsifier. VooDoo doesn't help much, either. Stabilizer slows the fuel rotting, but not much else.
Paul,

I can only speak from my own experience.I put some gas in a coffee can, added some B-12 fuel additive, and the water was no longer visible, apparently blending with the gas to be burned away? As mentioned earlier I have used it for many years in many different motors, both 2 & 4 stroke with no fuel related problems. Of course, using it is voluntary, and your mileage may vary

Dabnis
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