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post #91 of 105 Old 01-30-2009
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Blisters!

Blisters have always been a problem for my hands. For the past few years I just sanded and repainted the bottom. I pulled the boat this fall to do a refit and decided to tackle the blisters (many). Blisters were only in the gel coat, not into the fiberglass. I was first planning to dig the blisters out, fill, and then heavy sand before barrier coat. Then it was suggested I soda blast, so I got prices for that. Then my surveyor suggested I peel the bottom and get rid of all the blisters. Glad he did. Peeling was cheaper than soda blasting and a whole lot easier than sanding. I still have to grind the areas the machine couldn't get to but all blisters are gone. Will be building up with epoxy and go from there. A lot of work to go but I got rid of all the blisters. Letting the bottom dry til weather allows for epoxy. Just my pennies worth.

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post #92 of 105 Old 04-26-2009
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This is a great thread...

I am taking the paint off my boat Sunday. It currently has Interlux micron ablative, and I'll use the Interlux stripper to remove it, down to bare gel coat. I'm doing this because the paint is in pretty bad shape anyhow, and I want to use the VC 17m Extra to replace it.

I am thinking of coating with Interlux VC TAR2, which needs 5 to 7 coats, before I do the 3 coats of VC 17m.

I am wondering if anyone has worked with VC TAR2 and if so, how was the experience?

My thinking is that all the reputable products will do a good job and last a while, so I am trying to figure out which is the easiest
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post #93 of 105 Old 04-26-2009
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It is always a good idea to measure the humidity of the hull before applying the barrier coat. If the humidty is high, barrier coating is not recommended.
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post #94 of 105 Old 04-26-2009
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Does gelcoat not work as a barrier coat?
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post #95 of 105 Old 04-26-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by celenoglu View Post
It is always a good idea to measure the humidity of the hull before applying the barrier coat. If the humidty is high, barrier coating is not recommended.
Yup, I was thinking about that. When I bought the boat last September the surveyor measured the hull at many points and said the moisture content was quite low. But, the boat has Interlux micron anti-fouling on it now, so maybe that messed his readings up. I'll measure again after the paint is stripped.
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post #96 of 105 Old 04-26-2009
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Quote:
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Does gelcoat not work as a barrier coat?
Well gel coat is a bit water permeable. The barrier coat is less so. This helps prevent against water getting in and causing blisters and other damage. This was discussed quite a bit earlier in this thread. It's a great thread, well worth reading from the top.
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post #97 of 105 Old 04-26-2009
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WOW, this stuff is EXPENSIVE

I may have to rethink this! This is going to cost a fortune!

Okay, so my 30 foot LOL boat is estimated to have 184 ft^2 to cover under the wateline.

If I want to use either Interlux VC Offshore or VC 17m Extra, the compatible barrier coat is VC Tar2.

VC Tar2 covers 460 ft^2 per gallon. Coats needed: from 5 to 7. So, 7 coats = 1,288 ft^2, which is 2.8 gallons or 11.2 quarts (it is only sold in quarts). 11 quartes = $517 + shipping!

And then there is the paint itself.

VC Offshore would need 3 coats, which needs 2.8 gallons. At $209 per gallon thats $627 bucks.

I think I'll look at more conventional barrier and anti-fouling options
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post #98 of 105 Old 05-18-2009
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Hey,


Depending on the particular barrier product you are using, there are all sorts of restrictions on when you can apply the barrier coat (temperature), how many coats of barrier you need, how much time you need to wait between applying the coats (and how long is too long), and finally, when you MUST apply the antifouling paint.


Barry
How did you manage the jack stands with the interprotect and still have it sticky before applying the bottom paint? I have an extra set of jack stands that I've used quite well to get all of the bottom paint off. Now with the weather hopefully cooperating I can apply Interprotect 2000E barrier coat and paint. Advice much appreciated.
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post #99 of 105 Old 05-18-2009
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I wrote this up a while back, and it can be used to allow you to properly "hotcoat" the bottom paint as well as properly barrier coating the bottom.

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Alternating the colors helps a lot with determining where you've painted, but it is also very useful for helping you coat the areas around the boat stands. For instance:

The first layer is gray, since the gelcoat is white, and you can paint right up to the boat stand pads. Then you paint a layer of white, and leave about a two-inch margin of gray paint around the pads... then paint a layer a gray and leave a four-inch margin around the pads or about two-inches of white and two inches of gray showing...and then finish with a layer of white—with a six-inch margin around the pads—with two inches of gray, two inches of white and two inches of gray.

Then when you move the boat stands, you can fill in the pads and layer the paint accordingly... adding gray to cover the white square left by the pad.. then white to cover the gray square, and so on.

Also, by alternating colors, you can see if someone has sanded through the barrier coat when you're prepping the boat for re-painting. If there's an area that is gray or grayish, they've sanded through at least the outermost layer of barrier coat. If you had all white, you wouldn't be able to tell if they had sanded down through the barrier coat as easily—if you had all gray, you could tell they sanded through the barrier coat...but not if they've sanded into it...

I hope this helps clear things up a bit.

Sailingdog

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post #100 of 105 Old 05-18-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarcher View Post
I may have to rethink this! This is going to cost a fortune!

Okay, so my 30 foot LOL boat is estimated to have 184 ft^2 to cover under the wateline.

If I want to use either Interlux VC Offshore or VC 17m Extra, the compatible barrier coat is VC Tar2.

VC Tar2 covers 460 ft^2 per gallon. Coats needed: from 5 to 7. So, 7 coats = 1,288 ft^2, which is 2.8 gallons or 11.2 quarts (it is only sold in quarts). 11 quartes = $517 + shipping!

And then there is the paint itself.

VC Offshore would need 3 coats, which needs 2.8 gallons. At $209 per gallon thats $627 bucks.

I think I'll look at more conventional barrier and anti-fouling options
You call that a lot? I just wrote a check for 8K to have mine done! Unfortunately I have done four full bottom jobs and vowed to never, ever do another. While writing that check sucked it still felt good.. Original quote was 5k but I added a bunch of stuff as we went along like wrapping the keel to hull joint, removing all thru-hulls and barrier coating under them etc etc.. At $80.00 per hour it adds up quick. This is why the only things I pay for are Awlgrip work and now bottom jobs..


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Last edited by Maine Sail; 05-18-2009 at 11:20 PM.
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