Fire On Board - Avoiding the Unthinkable

[marinedtcomRob]

Shortly after taking delivery on my current sailboat, which at the time was a little over ten years old, I crawled back under the cockpit to inspect a leaking rudder bearing which was supposed to be fixed per the terms of the survey and purchase, but of course was not. As I wiggled into quarters where only ten year olds should be allowed, my arm brushed against a greenish, oxidized copper tubbing running along the inside of the hull. A hissing sound followed. I really didn't have to think long. I knew this sound was not good! This tubing carried most of the propane gas from the cylinder to my propane stove - the rest was currently flowing into my bilge!!!

I shut of the gas, ditched the copper tubing (really bogus and certainly not up to ABS standards) and installed a high pressure PVC propane line and a Xintex vapor sensor with dual monitors.

So what's the point of this little post? Well as we start the season it's a good idea to take a look at making sure we do all we can to avoid fire related (and other) catastrophes. Don Casey has a really great article on SailNet - Fire on Board! Some of the key points (mine and from the article) are:

• to inspect propane lines & fuel lines
• make sure your fire extinguishers are up to snuff
• install a fuel / propane vapor detector
• inspect & replace if necessary, old wiring
• replace old corroded LP tanks
• make sure the overboard ventilation for the LP tank locker is clear and working

If your budget permits, you might consider one of the on board security systems that are making their way to the market. They're not cheap but you may get a significant insurance break and if you're not at your boat every few days to check up on her, you can gain a lot of piece of mind. Most of these systems employ wireless technology to alert you when there is a fire, bilge or intrusion alert on your boat.

One other tip, a bit off topic but related. Hopefully none of you will ever be badly burnt and the aforementioned, your vigilance and other suggestions from SailNet members will help keep us all safe. However, a few years ago I did get 2nd degree burns on both my hands. Tylenol with codeine didn't even make a dent in the pain. I was in agony. My wife, who is a physician, brought home an over the counter product called "2nd Skin Moist Burn Pads." Of all the products I've encountered in the past twenty years, I am more appreciative for the existence of this product than any other. I highly recommend you carry some of these in your medicine kit. For burns over a relatively small portion of your body, they are darn near a miracle.

[sailaway21]

Good point, Rob. Most people fail to realize, until actually at sea, that when fire breaks out the only place to run to is overboard. Better to not have one in the first place. Fanaticism in avoiding one is no vice. I've found Silvadene cream to be a fantastic treatment for burns. It's by prescription, though.

[sailingdog]

I was going to mention silvadene cream... it is, literally, a life saver for burn victims. Ideally, you should have both Silvadene, with lots of gauze, and the 2nd Skin Burn Pads aboard, since they're used for slightly different situations IIRC.

[peikenberry]

All good points and a great tip. I should ask my son about those. He is a paramedic.

Anyway, I fielded many questions about fire on board over my 25 years in boating safety. The first thing everyone should be aware of is; most on board fires are electrical!.

1. Make sure your electrical system is installed according to existing ABYC, ISO, NFPA, or whatever standard applies to your boat (depends on nationality) They are almost all the same with the exception of the RCD, because boats are wired slightly differently in Europe.

2. Check, recheck and check again electrical connections. Most of those electrical fires are due to high resistance connections. Connections corrode. Connectors loosen. Put this on your routine maintenance list. If you use fuses check the fuse holders. They are generally copper and copper corrodes rapidly. If you keep the boat plugged into shore power during the winter check your shore plug and cord frequently.

3. Small Portable fire extinguishers are next to useless on anything but the smallest fires. Stuff like galley fires, waste basket fires, smouldering wires can be put out with a portable. But anything bigger requires (yes requires) a fully automatic system to put the fire out. Otherwise it's go over the side and get away from the boat. The system needs to be properly sized and installed by a professional. If you have a gasoline engine this is a priority!

4. Fuel systems, propane systems all need the same rigorous routine of checking and maintaining. Almost all fuel or propane leaks are at fittings. Check check check. Replace fuel hoses if there is any doubt about their integrity. It's cheap insurance.

5. Last but not least: Prepare to abandon ship. Practice. Know where your abandon ship kit is. Check it frequently. If you have an EPIRB check the batteries routinely. If you have a inflatable raft make sure it gets its annual inspection. Train everyone on board how to release and inflate it. Make sure lifejackets are stowed where they can be reached qucikly and put on easily. They should be adjusted and fitted, and have the persons name and the boat name on them. Remember, after you are in the water it is almost impossible to put a PFD on.

[artbyjody]

Just want to add:

1. Most electrical fires can be extinguished quite easily if the power source is turned off. Everyone or least one other than the vessel's skipper should know where the isolation switch is... In most cases once a fire is detected people panic and think the first thing to do is grab an extinguisher... when it fact a few seconds spent to analyze where the cause / source of the fire is - can greatly limit the amount of damage...

IE: If the fire can be determined in an area where there is a majority of electrical components or wires - first step should be turn off the DC from the Perko or other isolation switch...

If the the root cause of the fire is from gas - turning to the off position the fuel switch - whether diesel, gas, or propane...

2. The requirements for extinguishers on board are the bare minimum. Invest in having three of each stored about. Most people fail to recognize that most time spent on board and sailing - is that such extinguishers should be accessible from the cockpit...On my boat I have six and three of which are inside the cockpit storage bins.... why? In case of a fire - most often the first instinct is to escape... the cockpit is where the damage control central becomes... the ability to regroup and have the tools at hand to go and tackle the problem - is more efficient...

3. Every year all of your extinguishers should be tested..a five yr old extinguisher is most likely not going to do its intended job as with all pressurized systems there is leakage over time...Personally - I find it is cheaper every two years to just replace them with new... Sure its a outgoing cost on a event that might not happen - but when it does - you want to have the confidence to know that you can stop the source and the second step of squelching the residual effects can be effectively applied...

Just some additional thoughts....

[camaraderie]

Two fires that occurred in marinas where I kept my boat were caused by the owners using cheap automotive chargers full time on board to charge their batteries from dockside power. Don't be tempted by the price differential!!

[peikenberry]

Thank you Camaraderie, It's nice to know I am not the only one that preaches this.

[dbrezina]

Good article, and I don't disagree with anything.
I do have an observation about what may be one of those engineering compromises. As I recall, a reason to use copper tubing is that it doesn't 'work harden' in some high vibration situations when compared to other metal fuel lines. In a boat, I'd think corrosion is a far bigger issue. But if my recollection is correct, in tubing, we're compromising by balancing the two "evils." Replacing the copper tubing with a new material would make me wonder if the new tubing has any hidden issues like that work-hardening, or if it's plastic, some chemical process that introduces brittleness over time. At least those green streaks are a "heads up". Correct me if I'm wrong.
That brings me to another copper question, and might be getting us off topic, but I have the same concern about grounding the rig on my sailboat. It came with factory copper wire grounding the aluminum mast to the stainless keel bolts in the lead keel. Should this be re-run with aluminum wire?

[bneedalm]

I bought a Xantrax propane panel with detector. However, the detector went bad two years in a row during winter storage. When the boat went on the hard, the detector was working, but come spring splash the detector caused constant alarm, even if the propane bottle was closed.

After two years I gave up on replacing the detector at $100 each.

I did install a pressure gage at the propane tank to detect any leakage in the tubing. I close the valve on the propane bottle when I am not on the boat.

Has anyone else had detector problems?

[sailingdog]

Copper does work harden. It also corrodes. You're much better off using flexible hose, properly protected from chafe.

Originally Posted by dbrezina

Good article, and I don't disagree with anything.
I do have an observation about what may be one of those engineering compromises. As I recall, a reason to use copper tubing is that it doesn't 'work harden' in some high vibration situations when compared to other metal fuel lines. In a boat, I'd think corrosion is a far bigger issue. But if my recollection is correct, in tubing, we're compromising by balancing the two "evils." Replacing the copper tubing with a new material would make me wonder if the new tubing has any hidden issues like that work-hardening, or if it's plastic, some chemical process that introduces brittleness over time. At least those green streaks are a "heads up". Correct me if I'm wrong.
That brings me to another copper question, and might be getting us off topic, but I have the same concern about grounding the rig on my sailboat. It came with factory copper wire grounding the aluminum mast to the stainless keel bolts in the lead keel. Should this be re-run with aluminum wire?