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Hillerange Alcohol Stove Fittings

19K views 22 replies 10 participants last post by  spoooner 
#1 ·
Here''s an exciting topic. I pulled the tank on my Hillerange alcohol stove to replace the hoses and shut-off valve. Anybody know a source for those materials? I''d probably go for a replacement if it weren''t so dang expensive and that the existing unit works fine.
 
#2 ·
I dug out the old post as there were no answer to the question. Does anyone know what type of hoses should be used for alcohol/kerosene connection from the tank to the stove if the system is of pressure type?
What kind of fuel should be used in this system? Kerosene or ???
 
#3 ·
I used to have the same stove. I had a new fuel line made up as the fittings at either end need to be done properly to be safe from leaks. If you're doing it yourself then get proper fuel line hose that can withstand at least 30# of pressure as the tank should be pumped to approx 10-15# if I remember correctly. The fuel you use is denatured alcohol.
I know stoves are expensive, I replaced my pressurized one with an Origo, but while I like the alcohol method I feel much safer with the non pressurized design.
If you don't need an oven then the Origo 3000 is not too bad at around $300.
All the best
 
#4 ·
bsfree,

Thanks for your input. You are right that the tank should be pressurized approx 10-15psi. Do you remember by any chance what type or make of hose you used?? I visited a number of marine and automotive stores and nobody knows for sure what type of hose to use.
 
#5 ·
I had it made up for me at an marine/automotive store, was quite expensive. The hose they used was fuel line hose, I think the same hose that goes to the fuel pump on my diesel. It's quite thick walled and able to take the required pressure. Go to your local chandler and check out the hoses, take the fitting with you as you'll need to be sure to get the correct inside diameter hose. For what it's worth, before you spend any serious money on your pressurized stove, you should be comfortable that it's worth it. I wasted a couple of hundred on mine before giving up the ghost, and am really glad I now have a non pressurized unit (an Origo 6000 bought on ebay for 800). It's a pain that stoves (and fridges) are so expensive, but you'll only spend the money once, and get peace of mind and reliable service for many years.
All the best
 
#7 ·
Whenever my prior boat's Kenyon pressurized alcohol stove required replacement parts, I found them either from the mfgr, or at a local marine store with a consignment program.

Many boaters choose to offer their old stove and ovens (some defective and used for parts) to consignment when replacing or upgrading. I bought used burners, hoses, valves and nozzles for small change.
 
#10 ·
Talked to Lonny at Seaward 626 443 8825. He's willing to try to rebuild the burner if I send the manifold to him. The model # is under the lid in the rear right hand corner BTW. Lonny says no one else services them or has parts. In fact, he has very few parts. He claims they are a real PITA to work on. Estimates a $200 (IF he can do it). Well worth it, it's a good stove. Very nice guy!
 
#11 ·
Hang on...Thought I should contact A&H (the other contact in this thread) by phone. Talked to Bob who was VERY helpful. He has very few parts, but basically talked me through a service, and offered to work on it if I couldn't do it. So...I have options. I'll post the outcome.
 
#13 ·
Good luck.

FWIW, I wish I had just replaced mine and kept the old one for parts. I had to replace two valves, the oven thermocouple and various other parts for a grand total of $500. Of course it was one piece at a time with the most expensive and non returnable parts ordered first.

My stove is essentially brand new now so It should give great service for a very long time.
 
#14 ·
Unfortunately, my experience with A & H hasn't been good. They didn't send the burners when the said they would. When I received the burners, one control knob was broken into three pieces, of which I could only find two in the box (???), and the copper manifold was badly bent. Unlike the manifold, the box didn't show any damage to speak of. I bent the manifold back so that it could be reinstalled. The really bad news is that I was able to prime and get flame out of the left burner for about a minute, but now it doesn't work at all (as when I sent it)! Bob has been very nice, helpful and apologetic, but somethings definitely wrong here.
 
#15 ·
A & H came through! Bob walked me through using a piece of 20 Gage wire to clean out the needle orifice on the burner and it's working perfectly. Still a lot of unanswered questions, but the stove is working great! I have a schematic of the stove which Bob provided if anyone needs it (file type wouldn't download on Sailnet).
 
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