Brightwork protection

Sixbrothers · #1 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008

My boat has a good amount of teak that has been varnished with cetol light. I want to re-varnish everything. Most of the varnish is in good shape but there are a few small areas where there is bare wood. What is the best way to do this? I would like to strip all the varnish off and redo it but I have other projects that NEED to come first.

Thanks

camaraderie · #2 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008

If you still have good wood grain showing through the Cetol light, then you need not sand everything to bare wood everywhere. Sand worn areas bare and feather into the existing good areas with 200 grit. Then lightly rough up all the rest of the teak with a scotchbrite pad or some fine sandpaper.
Suggest you now use CETOL Natural which is a newer product and better than cetol light. Put on 2 coats on the bare areas and one on the rest of the teak. Top off all with 2 coats of Cetol gloss for a nice look and then in the future JUST use cetol gloss to touch up as necessary and for an annual coating.

Pamlicotraveler · #3 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008

I haven't seen any Cetol that looks looks anywhere near as natural as a good varnish. Varnish is a lot of trouble, and when my back fails I may preach about cetol, but if you like the varnish look go with a good varnish. (I use Interlux schooner)

Strip the cetol off. You'll be glad you did. There are lots of removers that will take it off, and then lightly sand with a fine grade and put the new stuff on.

citation34 · #4 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pamlicotraveler

I haven't seen any Cetol that looks looks anywhere near as natural as a good varnish. Varnish is a lot of trouble, and when my back fails I may preach about cetol, but if you like the varnish look go with a good varnish. (I use Interlux schooner)

Strip the cetol off. You'll be glad you did. There are lots of removers that will take it off, and then lightly sand with a fine grade and put the new stuff on.

Got an opinion on Bristol finish? I'm considering using it. I understand it is two part and that makes it a bit of a hassle but it is sturdy to the weather,etc.

Pamlicotraveler · #5 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by citation34

Got an opinion on Bristol finish? I'm considering using it. I understand it is two part and that makes it a bit of a hassle but it is sturdy to the weather,etc.

I haven't used it. I am sure it is good. I read Rebecca Whitman's books - "Brightwork" and another one ( name ?)- and I think she used Interlux Schooner and it looks great to me.

poopdeckpappy · #6 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008

I really like the looks of cetol marine, 2 over 3 and it will last well into next season, and then just a quick rough up and clear coat and you'll be good to go again.

camaraderie · #7 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008

First...nothing looks better than varnish...but he specifically said he didn't want the work and wanted a quick fix.

Bristol Finish is the subject of some dissatisfaction over time...there is another current thread on this. It lifts over time and then becomes a pain.

Poopdeck and I agree on Cetol as the best choice between good looks and ease of maintenance though I can understand why some prefer more work!

chucklesR · #8 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008

Not exactly the same, but:
I have a teak table on my deck. After a year of teak oil I didn't like it so I cetrol'd it. After a year it was peeling and ugly - it's horizontal to sun and weather 24x7, 365.
Three years ago I stripped it, teak oiled it, wiped it with acetone to get the surface oil, then two coats of cetrol light (natural if I did it now) and then put on three coats of Landsman Spar Varnish, spray because I suck with a brush.
It looks new after three years. I've dropped cig butts on it, it doesn't show. Leaves have laid on it for six months, it doesn't show. I got yellow deck stain on it - didn't see it and wiped it off later, doesn't show. I use it as a work bench. No scratches.
Hard as nails, totally encased, no edges to leak and fail.

I did the same to the teak on my Hunter, (including spray vs brush, because I removed it and took it home over the winter) and when I sold it last year the teak looked newly varnished after two years.

I'll never go back to 'marine' varnish. I'm convinced it's made to fail.

JiffyLube · #9 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008

My boat's teak cap rail was like yours, with a few worn and blistered spots (I bought the boat like this). I decided that the old varnish really needed to come off, because the touch ups where not going to blend in very good...it was going to look repaired. I decided to go with Honey Teak that is a two part, and it wasn't hard to use at all...it was the prep that was the bear. Three coats of Honey Teak (has pigment in it for UV protection), then three coats of clear. Comes out on the darker side, but looked good on our boat. Each season scuff up the wood, and apply one coat of clear. What I liked about this product was it can be applied wet on wet, and that saved time.

WuWei · #10 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008

I've tried almost every type of varnish/poly known to man, and the Captain's Z-Spar "weathered" the best in the harsh Florida sun. But, alas, it is looking a peeling mess, reminding me it is time for a re-varnish. I did buy a quart of Epifanes for teak at West Marine this weekend- not cheap. Anyone have any experience with this brand? I never used that brand, and am interested to hear some feedback.

My friend uses Cetol, and I'm not a fan. But, he's more interested in racing than cosmetics, so it works for him.