bleaching veneer - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 21 Old 03-28-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBurton View Post
Gym seal works well too

I know someone who used gym seal on every piece of wood inside his boat. It looked like a sheet of glass.
If your into high gloss, it can't be beat.

S/V Scheherazade
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I had a dream, I was sailing, I was happy, I was even smiling. Then I looked down and saw that I was on a multi-hull and woke up suddenly in a cold sweat.
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post #12 of 21 Old 03-28-2008 Thread Starter
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squeak

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Gym seal works well too
I was hoping to get that squeaking sound from under my foot when i change direction.
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post #13 of 21 Old 03-28-2008
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Ever poured water on a gym floor?
If you want the LOOK but don't want to go flying on your butt...suggest you look into Ultimate Sole.
Online Store

No longer posting. Reach me by PM!
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post #14 of 21 Old 03-28-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
Ever poured water on a gym floor?
If you want the LOOK but don't want to go flying on your butt...suggest you look into Ultimate Sole.
I look at sole.. nothing ultimate...when asked the difference of soul versus sole...I said depreciation of a "U".. I got shot ...

boat purchases now full of soul... or ballasted with lead..

I have lots of lead now...

G thanks...

-- Jody

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post #15 of 21 Old 03-30-2008 Thread Starter
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not quite

Ok. Here is my cabin sole after I stripped it down:



And here it is after two oxalic bleachings:



The teak has gotten A LOT better, but the holly is still quite dark. Will I screw this veneer if I do a shot of TSP then more oxalic acid?
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post #16 of 21 Old 04-08-2008 Thread Starter
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finished product!

I'm done.

I gave it a weak TSP treatment and a third oxalic bleach. Then dry-sanded with a 320 grit and applied 8 thin coats of Minwax Clear Poly - lightly sanding with 320 in between each coat.



It looks a lot better than the original...



...but not quite as well as I had hoped. It is certainly a lighter tone and many of the stains didn't come out of the teak and much of the mold would not lift from the holly.



All in all, I'll take it. Thanks for everyone's help.

Cheers,
LB
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post #17 of 21 Old 04-08-2008
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Wait a minute... are you talking cockpit? Why not use Teka A and B and lightly, very lightly sand. That takes oh so many stains out. And do you really want to put anything on it for the cockpit? You don't want to put anything on it that makes it slippery when wet! Why lose the natural grip of teak underfoot? Unless you mean the cabin sole. We did our cabin sole, veneer, teak and holly with "Professional MinWax"... you can get it at Home Depot, but you purchase it by the gallon. I tried Ultimate Sole on a small piece of cabin sole but it did not do well on my old previously oiled for years piece. And yes, I followed their directions! When you work with Teka A and B make sure you keep it wet while you work and use a 3m scrubby ... you will see an amazing difference.
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post #18 of 21 Old 04-08-2008 Thread Starter
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Oops. Yes, I did indeed open this thread with "cockpit" sole. It is indeed my cabin sole that I've been working on.

I don't think I'll be stripping down those 8 brand new coats for some Teka A,B, but I'll keep 'em in mind for the next job.
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post #19 of 21 Old 04-08-2008
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It appears to me from your pictures that you still have old varnish on the wood. That ends up trapping the discoloration underneath. If you strip carefully to wood, the discoloration should wipe off with 1 bleaching.
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post #20 of 21 Old 04-09-2008
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Doubt Minwax

IMHO Minwax will afford minimal protection, use a product intended for cabin soles that are subject to high humidity, high wear, UV exposure through hatches & portlights.
Bleaching will also remove teak color so test finish spots first in case you want to put some color back.
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