The instructions on the 3M bottle tell the user what pad to use (theirs) and what speed to use. Obviously you have never worked for a boat restorer or you would investigate before you show your ignorance. This is the absolute last piece of F***ing info I give to this site.
Um.. Who are you talking to and what are you talking about??
What's with the tude??
OK here it goes more "ignorance"...
You absolutely, positively 100% DO NOT have to use 3M pads with 3M compounds to get great results. Of course they would like you to so they make more money but there are better quality pads out there than 3M. I personally use some 3M pads, some Lake Country pads and some Presta pads. The Presta and Lake Country pads are uniformly better in consistency and generally yield better results even with 3M products than my 3M pads do....
Lake Country CCS Buffing Pads
I guess it's good that you won't be giving advice seeing as it's incorrect with teh product labeling you actually referenced and you clearly have an attitude problem.
You said "3200 RPM" and "3M compound"?
A proper 3200rpm and 3M compound will do the trick. You can go further with glazing compound.
It's strikingly funny to me how the directions on 3M Rubbing compound, you referenced, clearly state 1000 to 2500 depending upon the pad NOT 3200RPM. The directions on 3M compounds, like their pad reference, are perhaps for revenue generation. Let's see? Speed equals heat, heat dries compounds, compound and pad begin to grab/burn, user uses more 3M compound!! Brilliant marketing don't you think!!
Ever seen 3M advise the use of a misting bottle or regular old water to keep the pad wet while working? No, because the higher the speed you use the more compound you use! Think about it.. Sure I can use my machine at 2500 - 3000 rpm's but why? There is NO reason to use such speeds, especially as a novice, other than to use more compound.
Just for your knowledge, and because I'm guessing the expletive was directed at me, my history is as follows:
Grew up restoring concourse quality antique Porsche automobiles and was wielding a buffer to the 10-12 coats of Nitrocellulose Lacquer at about 13 years of age.
Was chief buffer of all family craft from about 12 or 13 years of age.
Worked from the age of 14 - 17 as a boat yard grunt and of course I was always handed the buffer due to the results I produced.
Worked as a professional boat detailer from age 17-19 again lots of restoration and lots of buffing.
Worked as a 1st mate on "Shiny boats" (Yachts from 55 to 110 feet) through my college years. Again lots of paint care and general maintenance including Imron and Awlgrip. My owners flipped over a single finger print and EVERYTHING HAD TO BE SPOTLESS!!!!
Personally reconditioned the gel coat or paint on over 130 hulls including the 25+ boats I've owned or family, Friends boats and the ones I worked on and got paid for.
No less than three weeks ago did the yearly buff and puff on my dads premier show car a 356 cabrio.. (far more critical and demanding work than the simple buffing of a gel-coated boat)
I guess you're right! I clearly don't know what I'm talking about when I blather on about slow speeds for NOVICES....
Considering I don't know what I'm doing I'll just let my results speak on their own. I re-conditioned this boat last spring. She was last painted with RED Imron in 1989. Not bad for a 17 year old red (the most fade prone color) paint job...
And a gel-coated Catalina:
Go ahead guys buff away at 3200 RPM !!
All the above boats were buffed at speeds bellow 1500 RPM's! For novices I still recommend speeds bellow 1000 rpm's but it's your choice...
P.S. The following professional circular buffers have speed ratings as follows:
Makita 9227C........ ... 600 - 3000 rpm
DeWalt 849............. 1000 - 3000 rpm
The FLEX LK603VVB.. 1000 - 3000 rpm
Milwaukee 5460-6.......600 - 1750 rpm