Ryobi vs. Makita vs. Poliglow??

[Siamese]

Lemme pass this on about Halekai's information posted above. I printed it out a few days ago because I had to get going quick on a 30 footer with no shine. I got the Dewalt polisher because there wasn't a Makita available locally. I'm real happy with the Dewalt.

I followed his advice for wetsanding, rubbing compound, etc. I haven't exceeded 1000 rpm with the dewalt. I wet sanded with 600, 1000, and 1500. Actually, the boat was already shiny after just the wet sanding. Final results are stunning.

I've prepped old hulls for painting and have done awlgrip before with good results, but never before have I been able to put a killer shine on dull glass. Not even close. It ain't quick, and there's plenty of elbow grease involved, but it's straight-forward and methodical. By hand sanding and keeping the rpm low with the Dewalt, I did NO damage to the hull and removed only a minute amount of gelcoat. The hull stayed fair as can be...and I don't think I even came close to a burn with the rubbing compound.

Another reason to consider following Halekai's program is that when you're done, you've developed a really solid skill. If you want your boat to be shiny from now on...these are the skills to have.

I'm telling ya, Halekai knows what he's talking about! And by the way, THANKS Halekai!!!

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by Siamese

Lemme pass this on about Halekai's information posted above. I printed it out a few days ago because I had to get going quick on a 30 footer with no shine. I got the Dewalt polisher because there wasn't a Makita available locally. I'm real happy with the Dewalt.

I followed his advice for wetsanding, rubbing compound, etc. I haven't exceeded 1000 rpm with the dewalt. I wet sanded with 600, 1000, and 1500. Actually, the boat was already shiny after just the wet sanding. Final results are stunning.

I've prepped old hulls for painting and have done awlgrip before with good results, but never before have I been able to put a killer shine on dull glass. Not even close. It ain't quick, and there's plenty of elbow grease involved, but it's straight-forward and methodical. By hand sanding and keeping the rpm low with the Dewalt, I did NO damage to the hull and removed only a minute amount of gelcoat. The hull stayed fair as can be...and I don't think I even came close to a burn with the rubbing compound.

Another reason to consider following Halekai's program is that when you're done, you've developed a really solid skill. If you want your boat to be shiny from now on...these are the skills to have.

I'm telling ya, Halekai knows what he's talking about! And by the way, THANKS Halekai!!!

Glad I could be of help!

BTW the DeWalt, I feel, is a better built buffer for the long haul. The gears are better and that may make it last longer than the Makita. Don't worry about the 1000 speed it's still relatively low and you only really lose some ability to do very fine work on painted finishes and a softer slower start to avoid sling..

We want pictures though..!!!

[blt2ski]

Quick question and thought..........

On the deck of my boat, I have a bunch of 1ish inch strips that are smooth, and a bit weather, then a built in anti skid. being as more than likely a buffer with some 1000 grit paper will not fit, I am thinking doing a quick hand sand to remove some of the heavier oxidation and leaving the AS for the buffer. Does this make sense, for the small strips, and the larger smooth surfaces the buffer could do the work.

Marty

[JiffyLube]

Halekai


Thank you for all that information you gave us, and I printed all of it out for reference...put it in my Boat File.

Now when I do our boat, or hire some of it out, I'll know what's the right way to do it...and when I'm getting BS'ed.

[trecksail]

My stern has some serious discolloration from where old name stickers must have been. I've buffed the hell out of it and it shines like a mirror but the discolloration is still there and looks "deep". If I wet sand might this come out?

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by trecksail

. If I wet sand might this come out?

No, usually not! It's called ghosting and the only thing to remove it is UV and time. Put the new name on and in a year or so you won't even notice. The darker the original letters usually the worse the Ghosting..

[trecksail]

Thank you both for the reply as well as the great info. I will be getting to the rest of the topsides and abiding by your plan of action.

[uwyoda]

Halekai,
I've read all of your posts on the gelcoat restoration process and you inspired me - bought the Makita 9227C, bought the Lake Country foam pads, bought the 3M buffing compound and FinesseIt II polish and have wet sanded the cabin/deck gelcoat with 800, 1000, 1200 grit (gelcoat is smoother but certainly not "shiny" at this point). I have a 1988 Catalina 30.
Now I'm trying to muster the courage to use the investments to finish the job. You mentioned in an earlier post (maybe not in this thread) that you were a fan of the foam pads, but that they should not be used on the "deck".
Could you explain the advantages/disadvantages of using wool vs foam pads on topsides vs deck/cabin/cockpit? As a total novice at this, I don't want to damage the gelcoat and would be happy with 75% of your results....

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by uwyoda

Halekai,
I've read all of your posts on the gelcoat restoration process and you inspired me - bought the Makita 9227C, bought the Lake Country foam pads, bought the 3M buffing compound and FinesseIt II polish and have wet sanded the cabin/deck gelcoat with 800, 1000, 1200 grit (gelcoat is smoother but certainly not "shiny" at this point). I have a 1988 Catalina 30.
Now I'm trying to muster the courage to use the investments to finish the job. You mentioned in an earlier post (maybe not in this thread) that you were a fan of the foam pads, but that they should not be used on the "deck".
Could you explain the advantages/disadvantages of using wool vs foam pads on topsides vs deck/cabin/cockpit? As a total novice at this, I don't want to damage the gelcoat and would be happy with 75% of your results....

If you hit one piece of metal, cleat, screw, turnbuckle etc. you will tear and ruin an expensive foam pad. They will work fine, and do the job, but don't get into the non-skid like a wool pad will. Hit metal with wool and it will survive hit metal with foam and it's toast..

[uwyoda]

Originally Posted by halekai36

If you hit one piece of metal, cleat, screw, turnbuckle etc. you will tear and ruin an expensive foam pad. They will work fine, and do the job, but don't get into the non-skid like a wool pad will. Hit metal with wool and it will survive hit metal with foam and it's toast..

Got it - thanks!! I hear ya on the expensive for pads... I intended to use wool on nonskid, but was concerned that foam might somehow be too aggressive on other deck gelcoat (cabin, cockpit, etc.) vs hull (topsides) for some reason.
I'l be spending a few days on the Mercantile schooner cruise out of Camden in early July, may make a detour on the way up from Boston just to eye your craftsmanship on your boat......
Thanks again for your expertise contributions!!