Paint Build-up or Barrier Coat? - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 30 Old 04-18-2008
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.... Having a barrier coat would be pretty nice...
Cas,
I gotta ask, if your bottom has no blisters, what would be so particularly nice about a barrier coat...especially since it'll cost you 4-8 days of work ...I guess what I'm saying is just because there are situations where a barrier coat solves a problem, doesn't make their appeal universal.

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post #12 of 30 Old 04-18-2008
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If there is a barrier coat under there it's not going to look much different in texture to gel-coat. I concur that what your pictures show is just cumulative layers of bottom paint. It's probably not a bad idea at all to strip it off and get a nice new coat of bottom paint on. You'll sail faster!

If you haven't had a blistering problem in the twenty years of the boat's existence I'd guess that you probably won't have one. I'd leave well enough alone, strip it, and paint it. That's enough of a project in itself!

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post #13 of 30 Old 04-18-2008 Thread Starter
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Thanks again all for the replies. I did end up sanding down to the gel (or at least started the project). I'm glad I did so b/c I found some water damaged spots. There's a couple osmotic blisters at the waterline (that I had already known about) and a bunch of tiny spots underneath that have some type of water damage. The gel is discolored and the tap-test sounds like small hollow areas. Maybe the beginnings of a blister? I haven't enough experience to know... Anyhow, at least it gives me something to work on. I needed a project.
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post #14 of 30 Old 04-18-2008
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cas,
Since your hull does have osmotic blisters, you will be faced with repairing the damage they caused and formulate a plan to prevent further damage. The best way of course, is to apply a barriercoat - ONCE they're all been ground out and most importantly, the hull has been thoroughly dried out.

You're probably already aware of the precautions and repair process, but if not, do some research beforehand. This Interprotect Bulletin is a good place to start. Good luck.

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post #15 of 30 Old 04-18-2008
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Cas-

You need to find out if the blisters are actually osmotic or not. Generally, osmotic blisters are filled with a nasty fluid that is under some pressure. By popping the blisters, you can usually figure out if they're just layup voids or actual osmotic blisters. Wear eye protection when doing this, since osmotic blisters tend to spray. If they are osmotic... you have to dry the hull out before applying a barrier coating.

If they aren't osmotic blisters...then all you really need to do with them is fill them with thickened epoxy and fair them.

BTW, the tap test sounds may sound hollow, especially if you're over an empty tank or such... the more important aspect to the tapping sound is whether the sound is sharp or dull. A sharp sound means the underlying laminate is probably sound. A dull sound means that the underlying laminate is either soggy or delaminating--which is bad.

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post #16 of 30 Old 04-18-2008 Thread Starter
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Cas-

Generally, osmotic blisters are filled with a nasty fluid that is under some pressure.
There I go once again.... learning something new every day. They're not filled with any type of pressurzied fluid, more just an air gap that forms a bubble appearance. I grinded them out and it looks quite dry. Will probably just fill it with Interlux Watertite Epoxy. The spots on the bottom fail the "dull" test and I can even see where they've become porous and feel weak when pushed. I've only uncovered a couple of these (thus far) so hopefully I can grind into some dry material and fill it the same way. They're only about 3/4" diameter as well so we're talking small areas.
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post #17 of 30 Old 04-18-2008
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there is a lot of mis information "out there" however not in this thread. Gel coat is porous and does not resist water intrusion. The fiberglass will either soak up the water or react to it IE. blisters. The longer you own the boat you will notice that the boat sails the fastest in the spring as it has dried out all winter. It is soaking up water as long as it is sitting in the water. this is why true race boats are dry sailed. America cup boats and such even though they are big boats.

Barrier coat! Barrier coat! Barrier coat! It helps stop the water intrusion and keeps the boat lighter and pays dividends in speed.
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post #18 of 30 Old 04-18-2008
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There I go once again.... learning something new every day. They're not filled with any type of pressurzied fluid, more just an air gap that forms a bubble appearance. I grinded them out and it looks quite dry. Will probably just fill it with Interlux Watertite Epoxy. The spots on the bottom fail the "dull" test and I can even see where they've become porous and feel weak when pushed. I've only uncovered a couple of these (thus far) so hopefully I can grind into some dry material and fill it the same way. They're only about 3/4" diameter as well so we're talking small areas.
You've gone to the trouble of removing the paint and exposed some deficiencies. Now is not the time to get into any type of rush to cover things up, repaint, and get the boat back in the water. You'll want to determine exactly how much degradation you have and fix it in a manner that is not only sound but also prevents further deterioration from occuring. This amy well involve a barrier coat. Search the archives here on blistering and barrier coating as there is a lot of infor already out there and some great links. A common complaint has been inadequate or improper barrier coating by technicians and a return of the problem. I don't think you want to go there! Please keep us updated.

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post #19 of 30 Old 05-01-2008 Thread Starter
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Almost done sanding... For those of you out there reading this thread thinking to yourselves, "Can it really take that long??" the answer is yes. Still a good decision to sand it all off though... I think....
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post #20 of 30 Old 05-01-2008
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Sand to the white stuff, then barrier coat and paint.

Neat trick I saw a guy do once with ablative paint, that I'll be doing in the future - he painted his bottom blue, let that dry, then put a coat of red on it. That way, he can tell very easily by simple inspection when the exterior coat of ablative paint had washed away, so he could easily tell when to haul and paint again. I thought that was slick.

I haul and paint when I run aground too much. Heh.

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