Swage on top and Norseman at the bottom?

[MedSailor]

The Formosa 41 we recently purchased has aluminum masts and greatly over sized rigging. Huge bronze turnbuckles, norseman (or Sta-loc I can't tell the difference) fitting at the deck and swage fittings on the top. And yes size does matter.

What I can't seem to figure out is why did the previous owner use all norseman fittings at the deck level and all swage fittings on the top? Since every stay/shroud has a swage on it none can be replaced by the user, so why go 1/2 and 1/2?

Further question. Is there any reason to throw out 6 year old rigging (or 10 year old rigging when we leave on our long trip) based on age alone? Rigging looks good and we plan to have it inspected, though I'm not sure what the half-life of stainless wire is....

One more question, in case we do re-rig. Who has the best prices on 1x19 wire 3/8" and norseman fittings?

MedSailor

[Stillraining]

Quite common actually...for hired riggers to do it that way...Its cheaper I think for them to sewage in house but the stay lock on deck ends gives them the ability to field shorten if necessary. I ordered a new forestay and forgot to specify stay locks both ends and sure enough it came out with the riggers with a sewage fitting for mast head...Live and learn..

[sailingdog]

One other major reason to do it that way is the swages at deck level will retain water, since they're pointed UP, and that leads to the wire corroding. Mechanical swageless fasteners can be taken apart and inspected and are less prone to that type of corrosion from what I've seen.

As for getting new rigging... RiggingOnly has some of the better prices, but you're probably going to want to go local, since shipping the stuff will cost a fair bit.

[ehmanta]

I recently (last summer) replaced all of my rigging using the swaged terminals on the top end and Sta-Lok on the lower for the reasons SD talked about. I ordered them from Rigging only (no personal connection) and was very happy with the service. I ordered them about a foot or so longer than I needed so I could field cut them.
As far as the life expectancy, "they" say you should replace rigging every ten years or so, but a lot of that depends on how/where/how often you sail. If you race, then you will stress your rigging much more so than a weekend cruiser.
When you get your rig inspected, they'll rub a dye to expose any hairline cracks in the rigging. Replacing your rigging is kind of like buying insurance.....you may not need it, but if you do, it could save your butt......
Good luck and fair sailing

[Maine Sail]

That's what I have, swages on top & Norsemans on the bottom. My rigger (Kevin at NE Rigging) said in his 30 years as a professional rigger he can count the number of failed top swages, that were not a manufacturing defect to begin with, on one hand. He has a box full of faled bottom swages he uses to show customer why mechanical fittings make sense on the bottm. He claims about a 20:1 ratio of failed bottom swages vs. tops.. Of course we are in New England where it gets cold and freezes and on the ocean not the Great Lakes..

Swages at the top saves a little money as mechanical fittings are getting very expensive..

Disclaimer: These images are not mine just linked to.

Norseman:

Sta-Loc:

Failed Swaged Fitting:

[sailingdog]

The lower swages are the ones that get wet most often...and are facing upwards and trap water inside them... when was the last time you had a wave wet the top of your mast... and how often does spray or water coming over the rail get the lower swages wet...

[knothead]

Failed Swaged Fitting:
[/quote]


This is not a failed swage. It is a cracked swage and therefore compromised.
It is true that the lower end of the wire is more susceptible to corrosion due moisture running down and collecting at the top of the swage. Some riggers will insert a sealing compound (5200 etc.) into the fitting before swaging. I have always recommended that customers seal the top of the bottom fittings using melted beeswax to extend the life of the rig. However, most reputable riggers will tell you that by the time cracks start appearing on the swages the wire has lived it's life as well and the rig should be replaced.
Mechanical fittings are not impervious to corrosion. I have seen them fail catastrophically without warning due to corrosion around the threads.
In my opinion mechanical fittings are great for the diy sailer and for emergency kits. If you are paying a rigger who has access to a proper swaging machine then the only real reason to use mechanicals is if the lengths of the wires are not available or if you just like to spend money that you could have saved.

[Hartley18]

Depending upon where you sail, it's not just water alone that can cause lower swages to fail. The amount of times the average yacht gets salt water on the swages is more than compensated by rainfall washing it away - but:

I was once crewing for a guy who had a flash new Bene First Class 10 that he cherished dearly - problem was that we were living in a steel town back then and the marina was located not far from the Pellet Plant. Over the course of a month or two, iron oxide fines in the air settled on the shroud wires and got washed down into the top of the swages. His mast fell down one day, along with a couple of others at the same marina. The shrouds had been totally eaten away.