Let's break this down into components:
1. Your strut is probably bronze and you can install a brass cutlass bearing. West Marine, Defender and a bunch of others sell them.
2. Sand or file one end of the strut to remove the encrusted
paint and to show the cutlass bearing and measure the OD of the bearing (i.e., the ID of the strut).
3. Store the new cutlass bearing in the freezer overnight and transport to the boat in a cooler. Freezing it will shrink the bearing slightly and make installation easier. Coat with dish detergent and PRESS the bearing into the strut. DO NOT pound on it. IM me if you need help with a makeshift press. Use SS set screws and threadlock after GENLTY drilling a VERY shallow detent in the new cutlass bearing (once installed). Don't drill through the thing.
4. If your current shaft is scored, you need a new shaft. You'll have a really tough time finding a bronze shaft, but that's ok because SS is better anyway (stronger, doesn't seem to attract as many barnacles). Save yourself some time, cut the old shaft inside the boat at the stuffing box.
5. When you get a new shaft, you'll need a new transmission coupler mated to it. It's only about $50 more and well worth the investment. Make sure that you tie the locking bolts to each other with SS or monel wire to prevent them from backing out under load.
5. Since you have all this out, I recommend a PSS
shaft seal. Others may disagree, but I find them to be well worth the price. It has the added benefit of significantly reducing shaft wear at the cutlass bearing because the shaft is only held in two places - at the transmission and at strut. Slight engine misalignments don't wear the shaft nearly as much as the traditional method where it's held in 3 places - trans, stuffing box, and strut.
I've done this job several times on my boats. It's about a half day job and well worth the effort. Take your time and check everything twice. Good luck
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