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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #71  
Old 01-05-2009
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I used the folding method as Selden explained to tension my rig last year since the 1x19 wires were larger diameter than the standard tension gage available. It was easy to do and the boat now points better. Good explaination.

Another thing I did which may or may not be right is to replace the old spartite around the mast. It's keel steped and I was getting some leakage through the deck and when I went to replace the mast boot I saw that the original spartite(not sure if it wa spartite) was cracked and crumbling. I dug it all out and then just used the best silicone caulk that I could find to fill the gap. The silicon may not be as hard as the epoxy based spartite, but it does limit movement of the mast at the deck. Not sure if there is much movement anyway since the mast is thick walled. At the Annapolos boat show I asked the spartite people about this, but they really didn't have any good response. The one problem that I see is that the cure time for a thick ribbon of silicon to comletely cure might be excessive?? days..weeks ...months
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  #72  
Old 01-24-2009
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Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice
BUMP for Lapworth
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  #73  
Old 02-10-2009
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Found Merriman toggles

There may be Merriman available at: defender's web site (Rules prohibit me from posting the site name!)
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  #74  
Old 02-10-2009
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Found Merriman toggles on defender's site
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anyone else with merriman turnbuckles?
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  #76  
Old 02-10-2009
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Merriman anyone?

Anyone else use merriman toggles?
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  #77  
Old 03-01-2009
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Shroud length/tension problem

For people still struggling with the length issue look carefully at the image posted before by "Valiente" at post # 61. (Sorry I'am not alowed to post images so I can not show the image myself)

At first I will say that I also was confused and could not believe what "Giulietta" was saying about this. Plus I had to agree with what "KeelHaulin" was saying about length of the shroud.

Then I saw this image and everything became clear.

If you look good at the tape measure in the drawing you will see it is attached, at the top of the tape measurer, to the shroud with adhesive tape. What this means is that you are indeed lengthening the whole shroud but only measuring the stretch over 2 meter.

If you keep this in mind the whole explanation makes sense.
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  #78  
Old 03-01-2009
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Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice
YEs...exactly right...

Thanks for understanding
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  #79  
Old 03-09-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giulietta View Post
[SIZE="2"][COLOR="Red"][B]

2) Longitudinal Adjustment. (Rake)

(NOTE: this has to be done in a day with no wind with the boat perfectly horizontal, shift weight if you have to balance the boat).

Rake will help increase or decrease Weather helm. Aft Rake increases weather helm, improving pointing, forward rake does the opposite.

Normal rake is 1 to 2º degrees aft for cruiser boats and up to 4º deg aft for high performance racers.

a) Install a bucket with water under the boom by the mast.

b) Attach a heavy object to the main sail halyard and dip it the bucket but it should not touch the bottom of the bucket. (The bucket and water are used to dampen the swinging of the halyard.)

c) Measure P, which is the distance from the boom to the top of the mast.

d) Measure the distance from the halyard to the edge of the mast, at the gooseneck.



[
2) Mast Pre bend

Once the masts are where you want them to be, and before we tension the shrouds, we need to set the masts curvature, or pre-bend.

For this attach the halyard that was in the bucket so it ends at the mast foot.

Now adjust the baby stay and or forestays so that the belly of the mast goes forward. Takes a few tries.
The max bend at rest should not exceed half of the mast diameter.

Have fun.
Alex,

Still a little confused about mast rake and mast bend and how to put in one without effecting the other. I've seen the diagram showing the difference between the two so that is not what I'm questioning, just implementation of it with a mast head rig, a keel step mast with "spar-tite" around the mast at deck level, cutter rig with furler on the forestay(Pro Furl), bow spirit with bob stay, and heavy dispalcement cruiser. (A Tayana 37) Even with putting somewhere near 25% tension on the backstay, the mast remains vertical using the method of the halyard hanging from the mast head. It seems that in order to get aft mast rake, I would need to adjust the keel step such that the mast sits at an angle fore and aft using shims. If that is the case then there can be no adjustment to the mast rake once the mast is installed on the boat. Is my understanding correct on that point?

The other question is the tension in the forestay with furler. I did look for some way of accessing the wire like you suggested, but I can't locate anything in the Pro Furl. The only thing I can figure is to assume that whatever I put into the backstay gets transmitted to the forestay.

BTW Your videos are great!

DB on the Cheaspeake Bay
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  #80  
Old 03-28-2009
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Along this line but different. The tang fitting, the fitting that accepts the
marina fork at the mast, how much movement should it have?

Bob SV Journey
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