Steering Cable Replacement - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 27 Old 04-28-2008
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3. Anyone have any other helpful tips about completing this job?
My advice is don't let your marina make any of your maintenance decisions for you. If there is something wrong with your boat - fix it. Right away. If you don't it will become a bigger problem.

Good Luck
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post #12 of 27 Old 04-28-2008
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Originally Posted by Sailormann View Post
My advice is don't let your marina make any of your maintenance decisions for you. If there is something wrong with your boat - fix it. Right away. If you don't it will become a bigger problem.

Good Luck
I totally agree with you! I might not want to use the people you went to, because I don't want them to tell me to not to do something that I know needs to be fixed...besides, since I'm willing to pay, what's with them not wanting to do it? They must have to much work, and they're cherry picking the work.
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post #13 of 27 Old 04-29-2008 Thread Starter
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My conclusion about my marina's service department was exactly as suggested above - replacing the steering cable is a frustrating job because of the need to crawl into confined spaces, so they'd rather not do it.
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post #14 of 27 Old 04-29-2008
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A little trick for attaching a messenger line to wire is to unlay a strand or two for a few inches and then lay a small diameter messenger line against the wire. Then relay the strands around the messenger, thus trapping it. Use a little tape to keep the wire from unlaying as you pull it through all the twists and turns.
I have replaced many halyards, steering cables and centerboard cables over the years with this method.
Trying to tape a messenger to a greasy piece of wire is just asking for trouble.
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post #15 of 27 Old 04-29-2008
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Northeaster hit a real good point when he mentioned the rudder stops.

My cables and chain are all in good working condition but, I had a failure last summer where the cable jumped off one of the sheaves.

The cause...turning the wheel too far with no stop.
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post #16 of 27 Old 05-05-2008 Thread Starter
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As an update, I finally had some dry weather to work on the boat this weekend. I took the old cable and chain assembly out. One snag I'll have to deal with on re-installation is that only one of my messenger lines survived the journey - the second got cut up in the conduit at the bottom of the pedestal and the cable pulled free. I think I'll be able to get the second line up to the top using fish tape or a coat hanger.

The steering cable was, in fact, in terrible shape. Of the seven strands of the 7x19 cable, only two were still holding. It was definitely an accident waiting to happen. I can't believe my marina told me it didn't need to be replaced. I can only guess that they shone a flashlight from the front and didn't actually crawl under to look at it.

The failure point was right where the wire was crimped (see picture). I don't see any rudder stops in place, so I think the problem is that the quadrant is being permitted to swing so far to each side that it bends the cable at too tight of an angle. I'll have to investigate what kind of stop I can install.

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post #17 of 27 Old 05-05-2008
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I think you are correct. No wire should be allowed to bend at the terminal whether Swaged or Nico-pressed.

That why the use of toggles on the standing rigging is so important.
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post #18 of 27 Old 05-05-2008
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Zoom - I just replace mine a couple weeks ago - your steering quadrant looks very similar. When I installed adjusting "take-up" eye bolts, I had to tighten the nut most of the way, only leaving an inch, or so, of threads showing (for tightening). Otherwise, my cable clamps would have been bending around the corner of the quadrant - as in your picture!
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post #19 of 27 Old 05-10-2008
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Thanks to the replies to this post, I am ready to install the parts. I ended up getting a rigger to make up the cables ($50 vs the $240 that Edson wanted). In my case, the cable was in good shape except for an isolated area on the starboard wire that had about half the strands broken. This did not point to a misaligned sheave since you would expect to see more generalized wear. A rigger thought that as some point, the cable became loose and jumped the sheave causing the damage. Something to remember if it ever happens. Another problem I noted was an abraded instrument wiring harness that someone had installed too close to the chain. Just like a car, one of the benefits of doing the work yourself is that you spot other problems in the process. I do have one other question. When I removed the cable, each eye bolt was secured with two nuts- one on each side of the radial housing making a secure fit. The Edson literature (not very comprehensive) indicates that both nuts should be on the same side. It seems to me that if that were the case, the eye would be free so float back and forth a bit and eventually damage the threads or, more probably, abrade the hole in the radial. Has anyone else encountered this? I remember reading somewhere that it is not always wise to reinstall parts on an old boat the way they came off. You don’t know who did the previous work.
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post #20 of 27 Old 05-10-2008
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The Edson literature (not very comprehensive) indicates that both nuts should be on the same side. It seems to me that if that were the case, the eye would be free so float back and forth a bit and eventually damage the threads or, more probably, abrade the hole in the radial. Has anyone else encountered this? I remember reading somewhere that it is not always wise to reinstall parts on an old boat the way they came off. You donít know who did the previous work.
Both nuts should be on the same side. The first one adjusts the eyebolt and the other locks the first. I don't think you will have a problem with the bolt floating back and forth if everything is adjusted properly but if you are worried about it, put a third nut on the other side. I can't see how that could hurt anything.

You're right about not always installing things the way they came off. You should install them the way they should be.
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