The boat is currently on it's cradle. The instructions say to center the shaft, install and launch.
Everything I have read says the you should not adjust until the boat is in the water.
I cannot see how I would do this without sinking.
As it sits now, (bellows off) shaft slid into coupling and coupling slid against trans. Shaft is off center (towards port) by a maybe 1/16th inch, as seen inside the boat. At the flange it looks like a few thousandths (forgot the feeler gauge at home)
To complicate matters the boat yard has moved the boat(while apart) and it is no longer sitting in the cradle correctly,rear starboard pad has oil canned the hull, having it sorted out today, I hope.
The deflection coincides with the mis-alignment in that the wide part of the gap is to port.
So, do I assemble and hope for the best?
Do I adjust it and hope for the best?
Would a deflected hull (3ft away) affect the shaft log position?
Unfortunately the flange was seized so I do not know if it was close when it came apart.
Additionally, whoever installed it last time, used a whole bottle of thread sealant all over the flange bolts, nearly impossible to remove (red and smelled like locktite) is this standard protocol. the flange bolts are socket head capscrews and not wire-able, I could see maybe 1 drop of blue to make sure they don't back out, but am leaning towards never-seize on the shaft, as I do not like using the trans flange/shaft nut as press.
What is the right way to put this all together?
What you read is for the coupling alignment NOT the compression of the PSS bellows. The PSS bellows should be compressed and the compression adjustment made on the hard after the shaft has been centered as best as it can be. Many times the shaft is in alignment with the strut but the stern tube is fiberglassed incorrectly in relation to the engine bed. I only say this because I've seen a number of boats with this issue. A lot of that "centering" can be alleviated by simply adjusting the PSS bellows on the stern tube, side to side and up and down, until it's centered over the shaft.
Final adjustment of a traditional stuffing box
is done in the water but the PSS needs no adjustment other than the initial compression.
If your flange came off hard, and your re-used it, you should have it checked by a reputable machine shop or prop/shafting shop before re-installation.
Why? When a non-split coupling is fitted and faced to a shaft the tolerance between the inside of the coupling and the shaft is within .0001 of an inch or better. When you remove the coupling, after any time, that layer of rust is usually more like .01-.001 so when they go back together they can wobble, causing the grub screws to become loose, and continually get worse until you have A) ruined the shaft or B) ruined the shaft and coupling. You should never re-use an old coupling once it's been removed unless it has been given the ok by a qualified machine or prop/shafting shop.
I see this time and time again, and unfortunately it's usually too late, and folks need a new shaft $$$ by the time they figured out what happened..
I always recommend replacing the coupling, and having the new one fitted and faced, EVERY TIME you pull the shaft. New couplings are about $45.00 and fit and face runs less than an hour's labor yet a new shaft is $400.00 to $800.00...
If it fit back on the shaft and you did not need a wooden mallet to drive it home THAT'S NOT GOOD!! The fit should require a decent pounding, with a wooden mallet, to get the shaft all the way back into the coupling.
Before final adjustment of the engine alignment tune the rig and let the boat sit for a few days or sail it hard.
When installing the PSS always plumb it in or vent it well above the heeled waterline. Do not just plug the hose barb hole it's there for a reason..
As Pfatyol said ALWAYS back up the PSS's stainless rotor with something else as a fail safe. The shaft collar he recommends is a good one..