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post #11 of 45 Old 05-07-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KindOfBlue View Post
It's been like 3 weeks sinse I put that first coat on. If I do decide to stay with the Light, will I be ok? I assume so.
I don't know, but the directions say to get all the coats on with in two weeks if I remember correctly?

BTW...I think the gloss is what really has made the difference in the look of cetol, and using it as the maintenance coat should keep it from ever getting that ugly orange look again. They should just stop making the original IMO

Heres a good link on Cetol http://www.yachtpaint.com/USA/hotlin...kens_guide.pdf

Cheers,
Shawn

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1982 Tartan 37C

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post #12 of 45 Old 05-07-2008
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Hard to really see it well, but here is two coats of Cetol Natural Teak and two coats of Cetol Gloss, applied after stripping off old Cetol Marine (click for larger pic):



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post #13 of 45 Old 05-07-2008
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I stripped 24 years worth of the original Cetol from my cockpit seats over the winter and refinished them with the Natural Teak Cetol. The last two weeks have been dedicated to the toe rail, I'm finally done stripping, sanding and 3 coats of the base ans 2 cots of the gloss. I'll be refinishing the rest of my teak once I'm in the water.

So far I'm very pleased with the look, at 8+ feet you really cant tell the difference between Epifanes and the natural Cetol. But at a closer look, you just don't get the "fill" that varnish gives you. But for toe rails, dorade boxes, hand rails, etc, it looks pretty much the same as varnish with a lot less effort. My cockpit table, companion way trim & washboards are all being redone with Epifanes varnish, as they get a much closer viewing.

Here's a photo I shot of my test sample, original Cetol vs. Cetol Natural:
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post #14 of 45 Old 05-08-2008
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Here is another example of Cetol Natural:



The before pic:

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post #15 of 45 Old 05-08-2008
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Quote:
It starts to lift along the edges sometimes in just a few weeks. Cetol won't do that - unless you use the gloss over it.
Larry - Are you saying that the Cetol gloss will/could lift? I was about to put a coat of gloss over my Cetol. I'll hold off and just apply another coat of light cetol (one coat yearly). The sole reason that I use Cetol is because it WON'T lift. I'd hate to negate this.

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post #16 of 45 Old 05-08-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
You might want to talk to TrueBlue... he's a big fan of Cetol IIRC.
Should correct that to WAS a big fan of Cetol. Since I sold my homage to the earth's depletion of life-providing rain forests (kidding . . . really).

In reality, I also prefer the look of the new Natural Teak Cetol formulation. What I used was Cetol Light, which has a lighter color tint than cetol marine (the original), but still had a semi-opaque, grain masking effect. The Light was also still orange in color - just a lighter orange. Top coated three coats with the Clear Gloss, but didn't re-coat the next season, just touched it up in areas which were worn.

I've been with the new owner on True Blue (he's changing the name) a couple times after the sale and we've become friends - will even go sailing some more with him on the Bay throughout the summer, at his insistence. He did say he loves the finish and will continue with what I started.

The next boat however, will definitely have a VERY minimal amount of exterior teak, if any. As much as I like the look, after years of teak maintenance, I've come to the decision that it looks MUCH better on someone else's boat.

True Blue . . .
sold the Nauticat
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post #17 of 45 Old 05-08-2008
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TB-

Good to see you've finally seen the light... I prefer sailing to varnishing...

Sailingdog

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post #18 of 45 Old 05-08-2008
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Sabreman,
Quote:
Larry - Are you saying that the Cetol gloss will/could lift? I was about to put a coat of gloss over my Cetol. I'll hold off and just apply another coat of light cetol (one coat yearly). The sole reason that I use Cetol is because it WON'T lift. I'd hate to negate this. __________________
If the bedding is bad enough that the teak has visible water intrusion around edges, ends and scarf joints, the gloss will lift. I've seen it a number of times. It doesn't seem to be as bad as varnish - I think it is more 'flexible' whereas the varnish is more brittle and will crack more easily.

Try just three coats of cetol - your choice of color - though as I mentioned, I like the natural teak. If you apply the cetol in the same fashion as you would varnish, that is brusing back toward your 'wet edge' it has a nice look to it. Almost a satin finish. It lasts quite awhile looking like that - then starts flattening. Each year you can lightly sand and redo one coat. Try not to get too much buildup or it starts looking like paint - that is, you can't see the grain.

Or let it go gray, cover it with canvas when you're at the dock and everybody will think you're protecting fine varnish. Go sailing and only remove the covers when you're away from the dock. I won't tell.

Saltwater Suzi and Cap'n Larry


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post #19 of 45 Old 05-08-2008
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I've heard that Light Cetol isn't like light beer, it actually has a white pigment to make it look lighter, but, as a result, it still obscures the grain.

I plan to try the Cetol's Natural Teak next time.

Last edited by ronbo1; 05-08-2008 at 07:41 PM.
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post #20 of 45 Old 05-09-2008
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I am in the process of redoing the teak om my Nimble Nomad trawler(I know..its not a sailboat!!). I have owned the boat for over 12 years and have gone from regular Cetol to Cetol Light and now to the Natural. I really love the natural look so far. I thought the Light was great until I stripped it and recoated the peices with the natural. I am not coating it with the gloss topcoat as it is glossy enough for me as it is. Just hope it holds up.
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