new cetol

[tommyt]

OK, I ordered the Natural Cetol and Gloss after reading this thread through a couple of weeks ago. Then I see that Gloss can lift!

So, I am just doing companionway boards. They were originally done with Cetol light, NO gloss. They lasted 4 years and I was happy with the product. I have started the Cetol project with a first coat to one side, and am looking at a six day project to get three coats of Cetol on. I like the color so far.

Question? Other than the gloss look, what do I gain with the gloss? These three boards are in a pocket when not in use. They do rub together, but the old Cetol finish looked just fine for the four years. I am not a varnish snob obviously, so please give me a reason not to take the gloss back to the store if there is one.

[TrueBlue]

tommy,
In my experience using Cetol Light for three full years - and a Cetol Clear (gloss) for an overlap of two seasons - total of 2 clearcoats, never did I see any signs of it lifting.

The Clear serves two purposes; being a bit harder than the minimum base of 3 coats of the heavy body, semi-translucent Cetol, it provides a protective clearcoat and prevents a gradual build-up of solid body paint. At least one maintenance coat is necessary each year - so after a few years regular Cetol will become less translucent and more opaque.

The Clear however, is softer than varnish, so if it ever gets scuffed - retouch the scared area immediately, first with Natural (Light, or Original), then another coat of Clear. Otherwise the teak will blacken.

[camaraderie]

Ditto that...no lifting in YEARS of full time cruising. Go with the gloss.

[KeelHaulin]

The finish can start to lift at edges where water can get beneath the finish; so if you can paint the backside of the wood with a sealing coat or two to prevent water from getting beneath the finish. If it does start to lift you can sand it back and then put some touch up of the base coat; followed by clear. I don't think the lifting is specific to the clear coat; it's just the same as any other finish when it comes to delamination due to water working in.

I am switching over to the Natural Teak. My coaming, hatches, handrails, traveler are done with Light and will stay that way until I decide I want to go through the hard work of sanding them down and re-finishing them. For now they look great (well until the newly finished hatch boards and locker doors go in).

I'm wondering what can be done to prevent the finish from pulling away from the dark grain? Seems that even if wiped down with acetone the finish will not sit flat on the surface after it dries a bit. Any info on how to get the cetol to remain smooth?

[ericroline]

The old Cetol utilizes iron oxide as a primary additive for enhanced UV protection. The other less opaque versions are good, but the original has the longest lasting protection. A mater of choice, bright work or the colour? What do you dislike the most?