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  #11  
Old 05-09-2008
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  #12  
Old 05-09-2008
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It's my understanding that once you've wiped-out Awlgrip's thin surface shell, your only recourse is to either live with the dulled finish or re-paint. That's why I'd tend to go with Awlcraft 2000 or Imron, rather than Awlgrip. Btw: I have yet to meet a sailor to whom I related that who wasn't surprised to hear this.

That being said: The parts of our Alwgrip'd hull (we bought the boat that way) that aren't scuffed looked nearly as shiny, with no work whatsoever, as gelcoated hulls that had been freshly cleaned and waxed, this spring.

Still: I think I'd rather the little bit of additional labour and be able to buff-out abrasions.

What about Imron or Awlcraft 2000 vs. Awlgrip for touch-up (scratches, gouges, other damage): Which is easiest or works best?

Jim
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  #13  
Old 05-09-2008
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Originally Posted by SEMIJim View Post
Btw: I have yet to meet a sailor to whom I related that who wasn't surprised to hear this.
Me too!! That's why I posted this. Sure, Awlgrip will remain shiny for long periods, with very little maintenance, BUT, if you keep your boat at a dock fender chafe through is VERY common and the only alternative is to repaint the surface or at the least clear coat it with clear LPU.



Quote:
Originally Posted by SEMIJim View Post
What about Imron or Awlcraft 2000 vs. Awlgrip for touch-up (scratches, gouges, other damage): Which is easiest or works best?

Jim
Imron and Awlcraft 2000 are very, very similar. They are both acrylic LPU's and as such the shine/pigment is the entire thickness of the finish and as such it can be buffed and repaired. They are slightly less durable but still very, very resilient compared to other paints..

This photos bellow are a 1989 fire engine red (most fade prone color) Imron finish that I re-conditioned last spring. I challenge anyone to show me an Awlgrip or other polyester LPU finish that still looks that good at 18 years old!!!

You can't do that with the polyester LPU's like Awlgrip, Sterling or AlexSeal. When polyester LPU's are done, they are done, and when acrylic LPU's (Imron/Awlcraft 2000) are looking bad they are not necessarily done and can usually be re-buffed an re-conditioned but you must know what you are doing!!

P.S. For my own boat I used Awlcraft 2000 but Imron is basically the basically the same stuff... I still prefer a gelcoat finish over paint though..


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Last edited by Maine Sail; 05-09-2008 at 10:13 AM.
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  #14  
Old 05-09-2008
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Not the red boat again... could you at least take some new photos of it.
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Old 05-09-2008
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I know..

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Not the red boat again... could you at least take some new photos of it.

I know, I know the red boat.. Unfortunately, I've only buffed a a hand full Imron boats but this is the only one I actually took pics of.

But to answer your question here is a new pic. This is in mid November of last season..

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  #16  
Old 05-09-2008
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If I ever paint my boat I've threatened the Admiral with bright Yellow hulls (twin banna's) with purple canvas, black non-skid. I'm wondering how long I'd want that to last
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  #17  
Old 05-09-2008
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Thanks Halekai...
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  #18  
Old 05-09-2008
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Imron

Halekai

What products did you use on the red boat? My boat is painted with Imron, it's still pretty glossy but I want to buff it up before next weekend's launch. I picked up some Awlcare but would rather wax it if it's not going to cause any problems.

Thanks in advance.

Gary
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  #19  
Old 05-09-2008
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Gary,

Go to this thread
Ryobi vs. Makita vs. Poliglow??

You will get more info than you know what to do about your hull!

There was one other thread, but it took some 8 pages of looking back to find this one. The other is probably 1-2 pages further back tat halekai started vs the above one started by another person.

marty
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  #20  
Old 05-09-2008
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I read that thread a while ago and have looked at the various projects on Halekai's website (nice job by the way, especially the through-hull instructions). The instructions in the thread are for fiberglass buffing, I was specifically wondering about getting some glossy Imron.

Thanks again.

Gary
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