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OK here's why you should NOT try and buff out Awlgrip. You can see the area that had been buffed to remove scratches and apparently it looked good for about three to four weeks and then it turns to this after you have worn away the Awlgrip outer protective shell.
The same holds true for Interlux perfection. Roll it, tip it, walk away, never touch it again. You can't do anything to fix imperfections. Besides no one will see them but you.
It's my understanding that once you've wiped-out Awlgrip's thin surface shell, your only recourse is to either live with the dulled finish or re-paint. That's why I'd tend to go with Awlcraft 2000 or Imron, rather than Awlgrip. Btw: I have yet to meet a sailor to whom I related that who wasn't surprised to hear this.
That being said: The parts of our Alwgrip'd hull (we bought the boat that way) that aren't scuffed looked nearly as shiny, with no work whatsoever, as gelcoated hulls that had been freshly cleaned and waxed, this spring.
Still: I think I'd rather the little bit of additional labour and be able to buff-out abrasions.
What about Imron or Awlcraft 2000 vs. Awlgrip for touch-up (scratches, gouges, other damage): Which is easiest or works best?
Me too!! That's why I posted this. Sure, Awlgrip will remain shiny for long periods, with very little maintenance, BUT, if you keep your boat at a dock fender chafe through is VERY common and the only alternative is to repaint the surface or at the least clear coat it with clear LPU.
Imron and Awlcraft 2000 are very, very similar. They are both acrylic LPU's and as such the shine/pigment is the entire thickness of the finish and as such it can be buffed and repaired. They are slightly less durable but still very, very resilient compared to other paints..
This photos bellow are a 1989 fire engine red (most fade prone color) Imron finish that I re-conditioned last spring. I challenge anyone to show me an Awlgrip or other polyester LPU finish that still looks that good at 18 years old!!!
You can't do that with the polyester LPU's like Awlgrip, Sterling or AlexSeal. When polyester LPU's are done, they are done, and when acrylic LPU's (Imron/Awlcraft 2000) are looking bad they are not necessarily done and can usually be re-buffed an re-conditioned but you must know what you are doing!!
P.S. For my own boat I used Awlcraft 2000 but Imron is basically the basically the same stuff... I still prefer a gelcoat finish over paint though..
If I ever paint my boat I've threatened the Admiral with bright Yellow hulls (twin banna's) with purple canvas, black non-skid. I'm wondering how long I'd want that to last
What products did you use on the red boat? My boat is painted with Imron, it's still pretty glossy but I want to buff it up before next weekend's launch. I picked up some Awlcare but would rather wax it if it's not going to cause any problems.
You will get more info than you know what to do about your hull!
There was one other thread, but it took some 8 pages of looking back to find this one. The other is probably 1-2 pages further back tat halekai started vs the above one started by another person.
I read that thread a while ago and have looked at the various projects on Halekai's website (nice job by the way, especially the through-hull instructions). The instructions in the thread are for fiberglass buffing, I was specifically wondering about getting some glossy Imron.
Gary;
With Imron and most other LPU paints the object in buffing is not to abrade it with a grit. no matter how fine, it is to buff it with a higher speed buffer using a product like 3M final buff or any of the myriad of products by 3m or Norton or McGuire's specifically for this application. They are not an abrasive but more like tiny balls that roll around with the pad and essentially soften the finish with heat and cause the surface to flow. I attended the DuPont finishing school a few years back and they demonstrated the procedure by taking various panels of various ages from 24 hours to several years and intentionally damaged them with 120 grit paper then polished them out. The effect was like magic to someone used to acrylic lacquers and enamels that do not soften with friction. The older panels took more time but flowed out all the same. Talk to an auto body supply store regarding the system to use and spend the $ on a good powerful buffer and you can amaze all your friends and have a fabulous party trick.
The red Imron boat was actually done with 3M rubbing compound BUT I did NOT use a compound grade pad. I used a polishing grade foam pad and it was buffed wet and at speeds no greater than 1500 rpm. I followed up the 3M product with Presta Chroma 1500 polish and a Presta specific pad for Chroma 1500. I would have used Presta Ultra Cutting Creme as my starting point but I was out..
Imron will buff out like a traditional paint but do be very careful. If you're an amateur DO NOT use a rubbing compound on Imron, ,as I did, or you'll get in trouble...
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