Adler Barbour Troubleshooting (LED Flash) - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 17 Old 05-15-2008 Thread Starter
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Adler Barbour Troubleshooting (LED Flash)

I have an Adler Barbour SuperColdMachine of unknown age in a 1985 model Endeavour Sailboat. As of about a month ago, it's cooling ability greatly diminished and then appeared to be non working at all. I turned the fridge off for about 1 week, then turned it back on. It worked at 100% for a few days, maybe a week, then returned to not working. I attempted to trouble shoot it using the flashing LED(which flashes 3 times). According to the manual, this is a situation where the compressor rotor is physically blocked OR a high pressure condition exists that is preventing the motor from starting up. There is around 12vdc reaching the unit(I checked), so that is not a problem. Do yall think this is fixable or should I start shopping?

By the way, I have installed a portable 14 Q Engel Deep Freeze for my meat products with a min/max thermometer. I LOVE this unit and would highly recommend it.

John Pate
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post #2 of 17 Old 05-15-2008
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Probably worth the $100 bucks for a checkout before you spend the bucks for a new one. Have you checked all fuses on the compressor?

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Yes, I believe I have. However, the unit is mounted in such a way that I can't see(just feel) the terminal connection side of the unit. I really cant even see the LED, just the reflection of it flashing. I will have to remove my sink and some plumbing to extract the unit or gain access to the terminal/fuse side.

What do they do when they check it? Refrigerant test and such?

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They will generally check refrigerant levels and electrical connections both to the unit and on the terminal block. They may also use a sniffer for leaks. It could be something as simple as a loose wire from vibration over time...or a blown compressor.

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post #5 of 17 Old 05-15-2008
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Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
They will generally check refrigerant levels and electrical connections both to the unit and on the terminal block. They may also use a sniffer for leaks. It could be something as simple as a loose wire from vibration over time...or a blown compressor.
If he is getting cooling for a day or so the compressor should be ok and the refrigerant level should be ok. What type of condensor is used, air cooled or water cooled? I would look for a bad electrical connection.

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Den...I was thinking more of a compressor that would run till hot then shut down when I said "blown"...more in the not fixable than not running at all category. I am thinking low coolant or slow leak...whether fixable or not...unknown.

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Cam,

I'm looking at it's ability to cool back down again for a few days or a week. That leads me to think the refrigerant and compressor are ok. So there may be a problem with a dirty or corroded electrical connection, compressor drawing more amps. Or a condenser problem , a dirty air cooled condenser or if water cooled a corroded, partially blocked condenser or water pump problem. A slim chance of a low side leak that let in some moisture and the capillary tube gets blocked do to ice, but after being off for a week the system should show signs of being short of gas.

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He did say under the sink, so that should be an air cooled unit, right?

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post #9 of 17 Old 05-15-2008
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Check the condenser coils

I have had similer problems with one that was installed in a boat I bought about 3 years ago and it was due to lack of ventilation. You may want to check that the condenser coils aren't clogged with dust or dirt, which could overheat the compressor after contunuous running.
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post #10 of 17 Old 05-16-2008
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you have a supercold machine, is that raw water cool ?
if yes, any fouling of the cooling circuit ?

Ken
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