Yanmar doesn't start.arggggggggggggg! - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 51 Old 05-17-2008
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OH I forgot...

When messing about with an engine like this make sure you sea **** thru hull is closed ..as excessive cranking of the enging can fill the muffler with raw water flooding the engine...just dont forget to open it when she fires..
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post #12 of 51 Old 05-17-2008 Thread Starter
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Yes you would think so and that was the premise of my first post...You had it running so it is a process of elimination now...

It sounds to me like you have more of an issue with cold start turning speed then a fuel issue..the more we talk here..

Diesels need a strong cold start speed as mentioned compression is what ignites the fuel ( alibert helped with pre heat ) but if she is laboring to turn over that is 98% of you problum for sure..
Then I am at a loss here... it was 80+ degrees today and she turned over at 50 degrees prior... Check your PM.... I'll do my best to investigate what is posted but I know my limitations and mechanics is not one of them... in those cases I learn from watching someone ... this is the only case where I find paying someone is worth the money...

-- Jody

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post #13 of 51 Old 05-17-2008
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Jody:

Here is what a bank of injectors looks like...They will be close to the top of the engine but outside the valve cover...there will be variations with engines...The feed lines are the one you want to bleed.( These can also be on top of the injector they will have usualy a 11/16 nut) ...The return lines you dont have to bleed.

This is just for future information..as i sit here waiting to pick my daughters up from Prom..
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Last edited by Stillraining; 05-17-2008 at 01:59 AM.
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post #14 of 51 Old 05-17-2008
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Hope this helps.

First you need to bleed the filters. They should be gravity feed and the small screw should be loosened till you no longer see air and have a steady stream of fuel. Next you should loosen the screw on the injector pump and cycle the lever on the fuel pump. If your engine has stopped in the wrong location you will feel no resistance on the lever when you pump. If this is so, bump the motor a time or two. The fuel pump is cam driven so it needs to be on the low spot of the lobe. Continue to pump till you see a steady stream of fuel and no more air escaping. When you no longer see air escaping try to close the screw while on a downward stroke of the fuel pump lever. Keep the thru hull for the motors cooling water closed. Open your compression releases and advance the throttle to 3/4. crank the engine for 15 sec and have a beer or wait about 1 min and crank again for 15 sec have another beer or wait once again for your starter to cool. Excesive cranking will smoke the starter. Close the compression releases and start the engine. If it still doesn't start you need to repeat the process all over again.

PS ensure that the fuel petcock is open. And don't repeat my mistake of not checking to make sure the transmittion is in Neutral

I hope that this is some help. sometimes removing all the air from a fuel system will lead you to drink.... Cheers

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post #15 of 51 Old 05-17-2008
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In reading this problem I can't for the life of me, don't understand why you don't call a mechanic, this is the kind of thing I spoke to in another thread on mechanics. I would think by the time you call someone for help you will have caused yourself more troubles and dollar expense. There are other simple test to quickly sory out this problem.

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post #16 of 51 Old 05-17-2008
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Don't forget, that if you have a water-lift type muffler, you shouldn't try starting it repeatedly or for long periods of time as that can draw water up the exhaust and into the engine. If it doesn't start relatively easily, close the raw water intake for the exhaust until it starts up.

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post #17 of 51 Old 05-17-2008
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Don't forget, that if you have a water-lift type muffler, you shouldn't try starting it repeatedly or for long periods of time as that can draw water up the exhaust and into the engine. If it doesn't start relatively easily, close the raw water intake for the exhaust until it starts up.
Hmmmm..Thought I covered that already..
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post #18 of 51 Old 05-17-2008
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Yup, you did, but it bears repeating, since hyrdolocking the engine really sucks...

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post #19 of 51 Old 05-17-2008 Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone, I'll try all the listed. Hopefully today will be a better day at it.

Artful: Ever tried getting a mechanic to come down and actually do it without scheduling you 3 - 4 weeks out, and then when that time comes around seems something else always comes up and its post poned again? We have two shops onsite and as always the response is "Booked can't help you right now." If I had a mechanic that I knew could come down and do it today or sometime first of the week, I would. But this isn't the thread discussion for that because I could write a book on the subject.

So, a few more cups of coffee and down to the boat I shall go...thanks again everyone...

-- Jody

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post #20 of 51 Old 05-17-2008
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Good luck Jody,

Checking in before heading to shilshoal for another three races today, hopefully with winds as there were yesterday in the 12-18 range!

by the way, yes you can use WD40 if need be as a starting fluid, crank and spray in. If you have glow plugs, DO NOT start spraying until the engine in cranking, then let off when it pops ie sounds like it will start, or after a couple of seconds. WD should not ignite when the glow plugs go off, but better to not take a chance. I am assuming that the glow plugs would be automatic such as in you pickup. If manual like on my bobcat and trackhoe, not big when you spray in, if you do before cranking, DO NOT engage the glow plug button! It may take two of you on board the boat to succeed with this option.

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I drives me dinghy!

Last edited by blt2ski; 05-17-2008 at 10:13 AM.
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