Changing the Filter on Racor 500FG

[KindOfBlue]

I can't find any information on the procedure used to change the filter on this model. I used to have the smaller model Racor that had the oil filter style scew on filter and the thumb wheel primer on the top. I know how to work this one, but the 500FG looks much different.

This one has a large metal T handle looking thing on the top. What is this for? Is this a prime pump, is there an integrated primer pump on this model?

Does the bowl unscrew from the bottom, the filter drop out the new filter pushed up and then the bowl screwed back on? OR

Does the top come off, the filter pulled out from the top and the new filter droped down into the unit?

Is there a bleed nut on this model?

I am sure that I can figure out how to get it unassembled by just trying things, but I would rather have some up front knowledge so I don't make too much of a mess.

[Sapperwhite]

The T handle secures the lid onto the filter housing. Turn right to tighten it, left to loosen. Once you unscrew the T handle, take the lid off and the filter will be sitting there. The filter has a handle built in for easy removal.

Depending on if you have a newer or older model, you may have to use a rubber spacer that comes with the replacement filter. The instructions tell you how to know if you need the spacer or not.

The bowl does not unscrew from the rest of the filter. It sets in a recessed lip that is part of the filter mount. Check this diagram out (depending on how old yours is, you may or may not have item #10 in this diagram older ones do not)

[brak]

I just replaced my filter in the same Racor model yesterday.
It is as easy as it gets.
1) Using the T-handle on top unscrew the cap
2) Using plastic handles on the filter body (they lift from it's top on older models or just around the sides on newer ones) lift it (you may need to turn it counter-clockwise as you lift). Filter sits on the tube that goes through its center vertically.
3) Install new filter just the same (on the tube, while rotating).
4) Optionally replace the gasket that sits inside the grove of the filter cover (they supply this gasket with each replacement filter but they seem to last a lot longer than filters for me).
5) To avoid re-priming your engine, have some clean diesel available and refill the filter to the top before replacing the cover. My engine just starts right up after that, may be coughs a bit for the first few seconds and that's it - no priming needed.

You can also drain the separated water and all sorts of gunk from filter bottom by opening the plug on the bottom some - don't forget to have a pan or another container underneath.

If your fuel is dirty like mine, there will be a lot of "coffe grind" coming out but some of the sediment stays inside the filter bowl. I haven't found a good way to get it out of there (flushing with diesel does not help) - would welcome ideas

[Bene505]

I just used brak's steps and changed my filter. +1.

Regards,
Brad

[Maine Sail]

Ideally you want to drain the fuel to a level below the filter, I always drain the entire filter housing. Do this so when you lift the filter out sediment trapped in the filter does not wind up migrating off the filter as you lift it and winds up in suspension, in the fuel in the housing. If it does it invariably winds up on the wrong side of the new filter.

[SeaFever2000]

Brak,

To clean the bowl, that is not easy to clean otherwise, you can take the bowl off without much difficulty. If you have proper working space/access around the filter you can use an appropriate tool to unscrew the four bolts that hold the bowl to the body. I have used a small socket on a screw driver attachment. Once the bolts are removed the bowl will come off along with the bracket that is holding it. The attached picture shows the bolts along with the bracket. Once detached you can use any number of techniques to clean the bowl. I would perhaps try 'Krud-Kutter' first. Note that there is a gasket/o-ring inside the bracket (similar to the one we see in the top lid). I would inspect it and change it if it is deteriorated. Important: Don't over-tighten the bolts when fitting back. Remember the casing is soft Aluminum like material. Be careful not to gouge the threads.

Obviously you would observe the normal precautions before and after removing the bowl. Such as removing the fuel and storing it carefully before attempting to remove the bowl. And, filling the fuel filter and performing the bleeding procedure after fitting it back and before starting the engine. I am sure you are familiar with those procedures but I am mentioning them here for completeness sake.

Hope that helps.

KindOfBlue,

I agree with the steps that Brak has provided. They are quite comprehensive. Note that since water is heavier than diesel, it will collect at the bottom of the bowl and will be easy to differentiate if you use marine diesel since the diesel has the dye in it. Even otherwise you will see a clear line of demarcation at the junction of diesel and water, if there is in fact any water there. The water can easily be drained in a container by unscrewing the black plastic cap/thumbscrew at the bottom. You can see the thumbscrew under item 11 in the schematic SapperWhite has attached. Just slowly unscrew, drain the water in a container, and screw the same tight. The reason I suggest draining into a container rather than letting it go into your bilge is that if you do get some diesel out, you have a chance to dispose it properly rather than it landing in your bilge. Cheers.

[Bene505]

Great replies, thank you.

I wasn't sure which side of the filter was the engine side. And I did see some small particles floating on the surface tension. Maybe I'll drain the rest out now, I need to get a few cups of diesel to finish the job anyway.

I had some particles at the bottom, which you could squeeze between your fingers into a smudge. As to how much, if you glued all the particles together, you could make a BB pellet for a BB gun.

Not a drop of water. Filter was black. I have pictures but can't post them now. Maybe 100 hours on the engine in the 20 months that we've owned her.

Regards,
Brad

[SeaFever2000]

Thanks Maine Sail. Good points. I will keep those in mind.