Bleeding your Yanmar Engine

[denby]

Thanks Jody, good job.

[theartfuldodger]

The instruction for the vaccum pump procedure is with a bleeder screw installed at the return line, using a vaccum pump, one draws the fuel through a hose immersed in a container of fuel and as you vaccum the fuel through the system you watch for bulbs, if now showing you stop vaccuming and watch to see if you have flow, with the thought that the fuel tank is higher than the engine. Using this procedure I find 90 percent of the faults. There was once when this really didn't work well and knew there was a leak so I introduced a die, same as we use in airconditioning, and with the use of a black light was able to find a crack in the fuel pump body.

[Chablis]

I have a Facet pump but am having trouble wiring it the the electricl system. My question - where do you put the single wire from the pump?

[essman]

Good job. Even though I have a Perkins 4-108.

I do have a question about the electric fuel pump being used.
I also have one on my boat. Not sure if it is a Facit brand or not - I also got it at NAPA. It is a little square job. From looking online, the difference I see is a small difference in the output pressure.
The square one works for me, but is noisy as it operates, making a clicking sound. Does the cylindrical one make the same noise?
The one I have on my engine doesn't bother me, but I have used the same type pump for just transfering fuel between tanks, or emptying a tank, or in a fuel polishing system I made. After a while, the clicking tends to get on your last nerve.

[mwrohde]

Originally Posted by sailingdog

I think we need a boat maintenance and repair tutorial forum. Either that or a reference forum. Halekai's waxing and polishing post, crimping post, and through-hull post should be there too.

I was thinking of sticky-ing these like Alex's "how to sail" posts.

[SteveInMD]

I think this is a good start - very nice effort. However, I think there might need to be some refinement. Every bleed point from the lift pump point up to the low pressure inlet into the injection pump is a low pressure bleed points. The high pressure connections are at the top of the injection pump and the injector ports (on the side of the injectors). I think some pictures are not labeled correctly.

You don't have to bleed the high pressure side when replacing fuel filters. You only need to do that if you introduce are into the high pressure side.

Low pressure points need to be opened until you can see the hole or slit in the bolt on the threaded part. Just cracking them loose will make it much harder to do a hand job. High pressure points should be opened 1 full revolution for bleeding.

You do not need to bleed the high pressure line one at a time. Just open them all crank the motor until you get fuel at each one. Then re-tighten. The fuel will not flow back and introduce air.

[SteveInMD]

Sorry to be a party pooper here, but the more I look at this first post, the more problems I see. I think it's a great concept and I applaud the effort that went into it. However, I think the document is not usable in it's current state. For example the item the second photo labeled injection pump is actually the secondary fuel filter. There are many other problems as well.

[artbyjody]

Originally Posted by SteveInMD

Sorry to be a party pooper here, but the more I look at this first post, the more problems I see. I think it's a great concept and I applaud the effort that went into it. However, I think the document is not usable in it's current state. For example the item the second photo labeled injection pump is actually the secondary fuel filter. There are many other problems as well.

Feel free to PM me with suggestions for improvement (would be appreciated)- I am no mechanic and the intent was DIY laymans way of tackling it, and for my own reference since David spent so much of his free time to make it easy for me understand. Hence the pics and at least laying it out - even with inaccuracies - you can get it done relatively painlessly.

To answer the wiring. I ran the wiring to the push/pull switch from battery directly, then the output of the switch to the positive lead of the aux Facet Pump. I did this as it was the easiest to do, no intentions of leaving the pump running. The switch is in the bilge and I used a electrical sealant to insulate the wires and the back side of the switch. I'll probably change that out and put a dedicated switch on the Nav panel later, since I am running new wires all over the boat.

To address the noise - the cylindrical one that I have is quiet. You do not hear it running if the engine compartment is insulated / sound dampened and barely if you have the compartment opened.

PM me with suggestions and later next week I'll do an edit on it with proper credit

Thanks for the input.

.

[SteveInMD]

I sent PMed some comments.

[essman]

Thanks for the info about the pump noise.
I'll have to try one of that type.