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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2008
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Nice work Craig, but know that you have worked out most of the kinks in your system, wanna do mine, really the boat's not far from you?
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2008
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T37

You supply the beer... I'll sail over and we'll put a plan together! I'll be back from Poland and other places in about 3 weeks. I love Tartans...sorry I didn't get to board her a few weeks ago...

Cam
Thanks... I'll have more in process pics to post. I'm glad it's been somewhat informative. Just going through the learning process in public! heh...

craig
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2008
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10mm is the metric equivalent of 3/8". DUH!!!



As for Main sail halyards, the Green Fleck standard was only used on monohulls... on multihulls, we generally used glow-in-the-dark lines, but they're too hard to find nowadays in the right diameter and length mainly due to EPA regulations making their manufacture too expensive. They're a lot easier to avoid when you capsize the boat, if you can see them clearly. Unfortunately, there are no good current vendors for glow-in-the-dark lines, so we've resorted to using the same lines a lead mine sailors.

As Lewmar clutches are standard on my boat, they're not backwards. Everyone else's boat is. Just like my cameras... Nikons focus backwards compared to most other brands...

You might be a red-neck if you have Christmas lights on your boat all-year-long.

Quote:
Originally Posted by craigtoo View Post
Thanks Fast!

I've run everything 3/8 except halyards... They are 10mm T-900
Main Sheet is 1/2 fuzzy comfy line.

Main sail halyard is Green Fleck (I thought everyone's was...) and it's on the Starboard side along with the first reef.

[place tongue in cheek]

SD
I STRONGLY RECOMMEND YOU IMMEDIATELY RE-RUN your MAIN HALYARD TO BE GREEN FLECK AND BE SURE IT IS ON THE STARBOARD SIDE. If someone is crewing with you who is accustomed to the regular set-up needs to reef the main while you are busy fighting the helm in a sudden surprise squall with strong seas, visibility at zero, during the night, when you're in a busy shipping channel, the last thing you want is a delay in getting that reef in. Additionally, I've noticed on another thread that you didn't add the glow in the dark labels saying "pull here to release" to the fore-end of your line clutches allowing said crew member to instantly release said halyard in said conditions...(I mean....considering they are backwards and all wouldn't that be prudent?)

...can I get a Bite me?

Primary Jib is red fleck on Port.

My control lines are just pretty. I wanted lots of colors. I didn't get yellow yet. Cunningham is black, Outhaul is Blue, Vang is Blue Fleck, You see my traveler lines there at red and green. (I know solid colors will fade. I don't care they look cool now!)

Yellow will be for Chute stuff.. Halyard or pole controls.

...and wait till you guys see my "Christmas Jacks"... I'm working out the bugs of my custom Lazy-Jacks now... I may even put lights on them. (Yes I'll run the switches aft so I don't have to go forward in a snow storm to turn off the lights...)

Thanks again guys!

craig
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2008
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Sailingdog. I am sorry to be the one to correct the error of your ways....!!!


0.375 in = 3/8
0.393 in = 10mm

This is a HUGE difference when it comes to holding power on rope clutches...! I would refer you to the following links...





Inch - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Lewmar Home

Additionally.. you'll note that this small difference between metric and "standard" (although I hate that word for it...) causes major issues for the Lewmar clutches... I refer you to this thread... (this may be a stretch...)

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...yards-aft.html

Heee HEeee... can I get CD or CAM to back me up here?? Don't know how long I can hold out with the SD abuse alone!!!!



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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2008
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ROFLMAO... Craig, hate to break it to you, but no one is coming to rescue you.

BTW, the guy who started that thread is obviously a complete whacko. Probably chases his tail and runs in circles too.

The reason all the other clutches are backwards is because they're using primitive cams to hold the line.

And to quote my friend GUI,

BITE ME!!!!!
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Old 07-07-2008
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YAY!

(or... to lengthen my message to the minimum...!)

YAY! YAY!
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Old 07-07-2008
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After

Notice the bent U-Bolt.

Don't Do That! It looks neat but won't work.. too much force... I'll use those holes for a floppy standup mast base block for the vang and re-route my 2nd reef through the stand up that is currently used for the vang...(first port block from center now)

craig
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Old 07-07-2008
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After - Closer...

Another Close up..

So.. what is the plural of Mast Base Blocks?

Bevy?
Gaggle?
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Old 07-07-2008
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If you'll notice.. I still need to get some shims under to make the angles perfect. ... vertically. In this shot the main halyard looks off but it's not. It may have been loose.

Once you locate the block on the deck, you drill one hole at the forward end, run the line through and mark the other holes on the deck. This ensures that you get it set-up right....


If your deck isn't flat or you can't perfectly orient the blocks under the lines then you'll need shims.. No Problem! That's why I'm not too worried about having to re-epoxy everything... I have to install the shims anyway!

craig
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Old 07-07-2008
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Traveler

I like to trim my main sheet for wind... getting the top batten parallel to my boom then use the traveler for adjustments in direction etc.

For me.. the longer the traveler the better... It gives me more options.. I didn't want to go beyond the hand rails...

If this proves ineffective, or a safety concern.... I'll just trim it off.. two cuts and two screws.. easy peasy...
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