Running Rigging Plan

[craigtoo]

In this shot you'll see that some places were "solid" down to the headliner.. where some holes weren't.

When you try this.. you'll be frustrated that you can't get stainless bolts exactly the right length.

We cut many bolts.. becase we didn't want them below the headliner where possible.

Also... We used a 1in hole saw to cut all the holes in the headliner. Plugs were readily available at our local hardware store. Remember though! This will limit you to a 1in. Fender washer. Is that enough? You decide.

Cutting a section of the headliner out and installing a backplate is also an option. Totally depends on the construction of your boat.

Don't put the plugs in for a couple of months though so you can inspect regularly for leaks...

[Freesail99]

The mast base blocks look really nice. I thought about replacing mine but it seems I am still thinking about it.

[sailingdog]

Craig-

I think you need to call Terminex. It looks like you've got a bad case of fiberglass termites.

[feiny]

My boat has a double ended main sheet. I originally got rid of it as too much, but then found that I missed it. One end comes off from the traveler over the companionway and the other goes forward then back thru the organizer, clutch and then can be put on a winch if needed. I need the one on the side if I have the dodger up and can use the winch for fine tuning or in a blow, but I seem to use the center line more especially single/short handed.
Feiny

[cfreeman]

Boy, you sure put a lot of thought and work into this. Nice drawings, I wish I knew how to make those.

I have just two (one too late) comments for you...

1) Regarding #3 & 4 of your "lessons learned"... "smearing" some hardware store 60 minute epoxy isn't the way to seal the core. Most core material (balsa or foam) is not made to take a localized compressive load such as you are producing at the mast base. With the compression of those bolts you're going to break the seal caused by the epoxy and you may end up with leaky core and a delaminated deck. The right way to do this is to use West System epoxy with their colloidal thickener; while you are buying it, get their "guide to common boat repair problems" and look for the "mounting deck hardware" section. Basically, after drilling the hole, mount an allen wrench in your drill chuck (you may need to shorten the short side a little) and use it to shred all the core out of the hole back at least 1/4". Then mix the epoxy with the thickener to the consistency of thick peanut butter. Use one of their syringes to inject it into the space; muck it about so all voids are filled. If you have a fairly small hole like 1/4" or so, take the matching hex bolt with a smooth shank and coat it with a mold release material; I use dry teflon lubricant like Sailkote. Stick it in the hole and let it all set up a half day, then bang the bolt back out. Now you have a nice clean hole with a strong waterproof core of epoxy. No leaks or compression problems there. Now bed your bolts through that. I prefer Sikaflex 295 UV for bedding but there are other options. This technique works great with big holes, like chainplates, too.

2) Look into the Scott Boom Brake for a preventer. Hard to get (they are made in England) and expensive but it's awesome; you can control the gybe with a 3mm line and two fingers. I've used one on the Caribbean to Maine run now and it's fantastic.

[Sabreman]

I re-rigged Victoria and simply replaced all lines with new. Replaced the wire-rope halyards with all Sta-SetX and they work great. I didn't modify anything that Sabre laid out except to add a 6" wire to boom end of the Vang to keep it away from the mainsheet.

The ratio on the main is fine with me because I'm trimming with a winch. IMHO a 38' (or 34') boat exerts too much strain to even think about trimming by hand.

The vang adjustment is way under-powered. Rather than adding more blocks, I'm going with a rigid Garhauer vang.
Garhauer Marine Hardware -7246260

My halyards are midships. I'd rather that they be farther aft, but I'm not changing it because a) it will really crowd the companionway area, b) I don't want anymore holes in the deck and c) once the jib goes up in the spring, it stays up until fall so having the halyard out of the way (midships) is actually a plus. I just don't want an extra halyard (the main) in the cockpit.

I'm keeping the pole lift/downhaul on the mast because in a race situation, it's the bow man's job anyway & I don't want the extra lines crowding my cockpit. I'd recommend leaving them on the mast using the logic that if you're so short handed that you can't afford to send someone forward to tend the pole or if it's blowing so hard that you don't want someone to go forward, then the spinnaker shouldn't be up anyway. Just my humble opinion

Good luck - you'll save a bundle doing the re-rig yourself. I assume that you'll be doing all the splicing yourself.

BTW - My centerboard is now stuck. Lowered it to check the cable and jammed it by cranking up too hard. Rigged the centerboard un-sticker but it didn't work even after some taps with a hammer. Will try again later at the dock.

[sailingdog]

BTW, I didn't do any of the splicing for my new running rigging, since I found a source of running rigging that was very affordable and only charged $10 per splice.

[craigtoo]

cfree
Nope, not too late. I'm planning on re-bedding the hardware soon. I appreciate your information. Sailingdog also provided his description of how to ensure that the core stays dry.

Sabreman,
I can't believe that the Centerboard Banger didn't work! I also appreciate your suggestions on the pole-controls.

[mangomadness]

I found it impossible to inject "thick peanut butter" consistency thickend west system through a syringe. Maybe mayo consistency.

Mango Madness J30 #185 rebuild

[T37Chef]

Bump for Garffin