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  #11  
Old 05-25-2008
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Xort..

I too have a keel stepped mast but I created a mast sump or mast catch basin. My mast sump is separated from the rest of the bilge and I drain after a rain or fog. Yes I get water down my mast but usually not much more than a quart after a good rain. You are right that there is no way to seal off the mast but you can catch it if you're creative.

As for your AC you can use a condensate pump and discharge the condensate overboard instead of into the bilge.

If I'm not mistaken though I thought you were on the lakes. While crevice corrosion does occur in fresh water it is reportedly somewhat less aggressive.

Having been through a keel re-set and keel bolt replacement due to a leaking keel to hull joint that resulted in severe crevice corrosion I now take keeping my bilge dry a lot more seriously...

Even back in 1998 it ran me huge money and I did a large chunk of the labor myself...

Believe me, I bought my boat last spring, and it took me all summer to isolate every leak, whether fresh or salt water and put an end to them. I had a couple of annoying ones that took a while to find but I finally did.
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  #12  
Old 05-25-2008
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There are so many other reasons to keep your bilge as dry as possible... osmosis, galvanic corrosion between the mast step and keel-stepped mast foot, keel bolts, etc...
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Old 05-26-2008
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All good reasons for an encapsulated keel!
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I have a lead encapsulated keel!

And I'm in fesh water, for now!

But I still want a dry bilge.

Halekai, thanks for the answer. Is there something specific you're referring to when you mention 'condensate pump'?

I have been eyeballing my mast step and considering blocking off that area to create a sump. The forward A/C drains there too. Thinking of putting a shower sump type pump there. Only thing to figure out is where to drain it. The forward head is nearby. One thing I'm puzzled by is that the forward sink drain seems to go straight down to the hull. Wouldn't water back up there? I expected the sink drain to go through the topsides of the hull.
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Old 05-26-2008
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Originally Posted by xort View Post
I have been eyeballing my mast step and considering blocking off that area to create a sump. The forward A/C drains there too. Thinking of putting a shower sump type pump there. Only thing to figure out is where to drain it. The forward head is nearby. One thing I'm puzzled by is that the forward sink drain seems to go straight down to the hull. Wouldn't water back up there? I expected the sink drain to go through the topsides of the hull.
Yeah, all you need is a shower pump or a small bilge pump and float switch. The AC could possibly drain into the same sump as the mast and you could then Y into your bilge discharge hose or sink drain. I always close my seacocks so the sink drain is not a place I'd drain a sump to..
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Old 05-26-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halekai36 View Post
But, I've removed the nuts, checked the threads and I know the keel to hull joint is bone dry and my keel bolts don't leak. My boat has been in the water for a couple of weeks and my bilge still has dust in it.....
Thanks for the info Main...I figured as much as far as melting in new bolts...
One thing though you say you took off your nuts and (washers) to inspect them...But clearly the crevice corrosion in your photos is past the hull and in the space between hull and keel..do you feel confidant that your inspection revealed all that much and there are no issues beyond what you can see?...I thought of backing mine off too but then wondered if it would really be of any real indication?...I know there is a process to x-ray chain plates within the hull and was wondering if this was a viable x-ray inspection process as well for our keel bolts?

Again appreciate all you contribute to this forum.
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Old 05-26-2008
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X-raying the hull/keel join and lead are kind of mutually exclusive.
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Thanks for the info Main...I figured as much as far as melting in new bolts...
One thing though you say you took off your nuts and (washers) to inspect them...But clearly the crevice corrosion in your photos is past the hull and in the space between hull and keel..do you feel confidant that your inspection revealed all that much and there are no issues beyond what you can see?...I thought of backing mine off too but then wondered if it would really be of any real indication?...I know there is a process to x-ray chain plates within the hull and was wondering if this was a viable x-ray inspection process as well for our keel bolts?

Again appreciate all you contribute to this forum.
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Old 05-26-2008
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X-raying the hull/keel join and lead are kind of mutually exclusive.
Ya Dog, I knew about the lead issue but was thinking of coming at it from an angel that might get the space above the lead and below the hull.
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It really depends on where the hull-keel join is then... in many boats there wouldn't have clearance above to get the xray machine head in there.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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Old 05-26-2008
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Keel bolts can be in weird places. For example, keel wings on my old Beneteau (back 10 years ago or so) were apparently attached using bolts to the main keel part. One day we hit underwater rock - and then found on the next haul out that the wings were gone. Looks like they were sheared off by the power of impact - but bolts were probably not in great shape by then. This was an expensive insurance repair job.
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