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  #1  
Old 05-26-2008
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please help.furling fubar.

i have a hyde streamstay one furling system on my boat which is older than i am and until this weekend it has worked fine.i was told when i purchased the boat that the upper bearings were toast so i replaced them,on saturday i went to change sails from a 155% to a 140% so i can repair the 155 and when i tried to furl it in the forestay came apart.heres the only pic of the unit i could find as i dont have the original manual and no marine store seems to know anything about it.
Hyde Streamstay One


basically what happened is the lower bearings were so badly seized they caused the torque nut (#6) to loosen off and the bottom deck eye popped right out.to access the loose nut and replace the bearings i need to get the drum off and seperate the end (#7) from the bottom barrel housing(#3).
(btw-#7 doesnt seem to have a lip to prevent the drum from comming off upward).
keep in mind this unit's bottom end hasnt been off in over 20 years so corrosion is holding every thing in tight.
i have already removed the outer drum(#8),the cable/rope line,the bottom deck eye(#1) and the four drum retaining screws(#10).
my question is how does the drum come off to access the retaining set screws(#5) so i can unscrew #3 from #7.does the drum unscew,tapp off?
i just dont want to apply force to it and break it if im doing the wrong thing.
as far as i can get the drum off im fine with the rest.
any help,and i mean any will be greatly appreciated.
note:
if the link doesnt work the diagram can be found at rigrite.com under furling systems,then click on hyde streamstay one,then click on parts breakdown.

Last edited by cnc33voodoo; 05-26-2008 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 05-26-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cnc33voodoo View Post
my question is how does the drum come off to access the retaining set screws(#5) so i can unscrew #3 from #7.does the drum unscew,tapp off?
i just dont want to apply force to it and break it if im doing the wrong thing.

Years ago I make a special tool just for this purpose. I don't have access to it today,(it's at work, I can take a photo tomorrow if you want), but it's basically a press. It's slotted to fit around the solid rod and it works by pushing the eye against the drum by tightening the 4 bolts on the corners a little at a time while applying heat with a propane torch.
Even with the considerable pressure of this tool the drum won't move without heat. Unless someone assembled it 20 years ago with never-seize compound and I could almost guarantee that didn't happen. The corrosion has effectively welded the parts together.
I have used this tool many times though not much in the last couple of years.
I think that people are starting to replace rather than rebuild.

I have to tread lightly in order not to offend the Stream Stay crowd. So let me say that they are indeed a bullet proof system that has been around and proved itself over the years.

That said, IMHO, you should just replace it with a new system.
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Old 05-26-2008
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cnc33voodoo, after re reading my post, I thought that I should add the following.

I do have the manuals for this system and have some experience with it.
I would be happy to help you in anyway I can to help you rebuild it.

The reasons that I suggest that you consider replacing are numerous and I would be glad to elaborate, but I don't know your situation and don't mean to suggest that you are not capable of fixing your furler.

Good luck.
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Old 05-26-2008
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"It's slotted to fit around the solid rod and it works by pushing the eye against the drum by tightening the 4 bolts on the corners"

so basically it presses off.are you saying it presses off upwards or downwards?
keep in mind i have no idea wht it looks like under the drum so i dont know if theres a ridge that will cause it to crack if i press it the wrong way.
im trying to picture this in my mind.the eye is the part at the bottom that the seal and inner races of the bearings rest against and this is also the unit the torquing nut tightens the bearings to.then there is the upper and lower barrel,the lower being the part where the bearings sit and the upper the part where the forestay comes thru.the upper and lower screw together and are retained by set screws.
so why would it have to be slotted to fit the solid rod if im pushing off on the eye?
the solid rod goes thru the upper barrel(cone looking part).are you sure your not talking about pulling it off by using the upper barrel as the pullers base?

thank you so much for the help and if it isnt too much trouble could i have acess to a picture from the repair manual and/or the tool you made so i can see what exactly is done?
btw,i know its an older furling system but until now it worked very well.i assume once i get the bearings in it will be back to normal.
i ordered the bearings this morning (2 sealed units from SKF)and this will keep me busy while i wait till they come in tomorrow.
as far as repairs,im originally an automotive tech by trade so for me the hardest part is just getting the proper information.
my only issue is my oxy/acet tanks are too big to take up to the boat so i will be using 2 propane torches at the same time,i just hope thats enough heat.
if all else fails i will be in the market for a new unit this week.
thanks for your help.
btw,what are the reasons for replacement?

Last edited by cnc33voodoo; 05-26-2008 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 05-26-2008
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rigrite-no answer

anyone know if they are still in buisness?
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Old 05-27-2008
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Attachment 1668

Attachment 1669

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Attachment 1672
Quote:
Originally Posted by cnc33voodoo View Post
"It's slotted to fit around the solid rod and it works by pushing the eye against the drum by tightening the 4 bolts on the corners"

so basically it presses off.are you saying it presses off upwards or downwards?
keep in mind i have no idea wht it looks like under the drum so i dont know if theres a ridge that will cause it to crack if i press it the wrong way.
im trying to picture this in my mind.the eye is the part at the bottom that the seal and inner races of the bearings rest against and this is also the unit the torquing nut tightens the bearings to.then there is the upper and lower barrel,the lower being the part where the bearings sit and the upper the part where the forestay comes thru.the upper and lower screw together and are retained by set screws.
so why would it have to be slotted to fit the solid rod if im pushing off on the eye?
the solid rod goes thru the upper barrel(cone looking part).are you sure your not talking about pulling it off by using the upper barrel as the pullers base?

thank you so much for the help and if it isnt too much trouble could i have acess to a picture from the repair manual and/or the tool you made so i can see what exactly is done?
btw,i know its an older furling system but until now it worked very well.i assume once i get the bearings in it will be back to normal.
i ordered the bearings this morning (2 sealed units from SKF)and this will keep me busy while i wait till they come in tomorrow.
as far as repairs,im originally an automotive tech by trade so for me the hardest part is just getting the proper information.
my only issue is my oxy/acet tanks are too big to take up to the boat so i will be using 2 propane torches at the same time,i just hope thats enough heat.
if all else fails i will be in the market for a new unit this week.
thanks for your help.
btw,what are the reasons for replacement?

The drum is pressed down so that it comes off the end of the stay.

I hope the photos of the manual are good enough for you to read.

Let me know if you run into any problems. Maybe I can talk you through them .

As far as why I suggest replacement. Like I said there are a number of reasons.
Here are some in no particular order of importance.
#1- It's probably 25 years old or so and has broken already. (peace of mind)
#2- They are, (as you will no doubt find out soon), a bitch to get apart.
#3- A new system is going to be much easier to use. They just work better. (open race bearings instead of sealed ones)
#4- less maintenance on a new system and you have a warranty.

The reason rig-rite may not have answered the phone yesterday could be because of the holiday.

Last edited by knothead; 10-29-2008 at 11:56 AM.
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Rest of the picturesAttachment 1673

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Last edited by knothead; 10-29-2008 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 05-27-2008
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Not too bad Knothead..
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Old 05-27-2008
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Not too bad Knothead..
Thanks, But what are you referring to? My little home made tool, the info or the post?
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Using a digital camera to get the manual on the forum.
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