You spoke of tripping on the furling line or they were laying on your deck. Don't you have the dual rollers mounted on your stanchions to keep the line off your deck? If you do, check the rollers for wear when you replace the line. The rollers get scalloped.
If you give up on splicing, (I did) and have a line done professionally, then off course you need to get it over the forestay, which means disconnecting the furler completely, (removing the extrusion attachment parts to raise is above the turnbuckle). Oh and it's a good idea to use the jib halyard as a temporary forestay so the mast doesn't fall down.
It is definitely a two many job. The forestay with aluminum extension and furling gear is heavy. You'd have to be superman to hold up the forestaay and exttursion with one hand, disconnect the stay and loop the line around it with the other.
If Tom does decide to have a rigger splice the line I would recommend that he have the rigger come to the boat and do it in place if that is at all possible.
The length of the line can be important. If you are sailing alone you want to be able to handle it from the helm and not have a big mess in the cockpit.
Originally Posted by JSL3
I have the same boat as you and the same furling system. I am a relatively new owner of this boat - I bought it last summer. Last weekend I needed to replace 2 stanchions that were cracked. To do that I had to de-splice (not correct term I'm sure) or remove the splice to feed the line through the stanchions. I ended up removing the line completely including removing it from the furler. What I did may answer a couple of your questions.
Threading the line back through the furler was very easy. There is no need to take it apart, just feed it through and rotate the drum. If you want to take the drum apart for inspection, that is another matter. It isn't necessary however for simply rethreading.
Re-splicing (my version of re-splicing) was easy as well. I'm sure this is not the correct way to do it and not very seaman like but if you are looking for an inexpensive and practical way to do this, this might serve you. As I took apart the original splice (presumably either 20 years old or at sometime changed by the previous owner), I noticed that it was simply a double braid line with the core of one end inside the jacket of another in about a 6 inch overlap. The whole splice (through jacket and core) was stiched together to hold it fast. When I put the splice back together I simply inserted the core of one end back into the jacket of the other and stiched it back up. It seems to be holding fine. Again to be clear, I know this probably isn't the best way to splice a continuous furling line but since the forces on this line aren't too great, it may get you out of a pinch if you have the same type of line.
JSL3, not to argue with you, but sometimes the forces on the furling line are considerable.
If you never use your system to reef or try to furl the sail when it's full, then I suppose you can avoid putting much strain on it. But if you want to roll the sail up part way and keep sailing, there will be a lot of strain on the line.
The last thing you would want is to have the splice come apart when you are trying to furl the sail in tight quarters or when the wind pipes up.