Replacing Furling Line on Hood Seafurl 810

[arf145]

If you're willing to make a video, Knothead, I'm willing to wait for it We are talking constant diameter end to end, right?

Certainly I've got next week--now that you've got me thinking I can do it myself, I wouldn't be able work on it until after next weekend anyway.

Have at it, and I look forward to seeing it done right.

Tom

[knothead]

Originally Posted by arf145

We are talking constant diameter end to end, right? Tom

Correct, constant diameter.
Wish me luck, it will be a lot more difficult to figure out how to post it than it will be to make it. I just recently learned how to post photos but still haven't figured out how resize them.

[knothead]

Arf, I hope this works. I had a heck of a time learning how to upload it. Had to join U tube.
Here is a part 1. I hope it's helpful.
Part two is still uploading.

Steve

[knothead]

Part two....

[arf145]

Nice job, Knothead! I think I can actually give it a decent shot now.

One (nearly) last question: I'm doing this in place on the boat with the line through the furler and blocks. Anything I should do in that case to avoid getting a twist in it?

Thanks for going above and beyond.

Tom

[knothead]

Originally Posted by arf145

Nice job, Knothead! I think I can actually give it a decent shot now.

One (nearly) last question: I'm doing this in place on the boat with the line through the furler and blocks. Anything I should do in that case to avoid getting a twist in it?

Thanks for going above and beyond.

Tom

Look at the color flecks in the line, you can see it if you have a lot of twist.
If it's solid white or a solid colored line it is still possible to see the twist, just a little harder.
After you run it through the furler and the lead blocks, just take a couple moments to untwist it.

[arf145]

Knothead, I'm doing another test in my test line. Definitely my crossover looks much better now. I've stitched it and I'm at the point where I've milked everything back prior to marking for tapering. But a question (of course!): at this point in the fid's worth between where a core comes out and a cover comes out, it's thicker than normal diameter and tight, and no amount of pulling will make any more core go in, yet I've got maybe 3 fid's worth of core out at this point. Is that normal? If this is a prob, could it be because I'm working with a pretty short piece and didn't have anywhere near 5 fid's from the last mark to the slip knot?

Tom

[knothead]

Originally Posted by arf145

Knothead, I'm doing another test in my test line. Definitely my crossover looks much better now. I've stitched it and I'm at the point where I've milked everything back prior to marking for tapering. But a question (of course!): at this point in the fid's worth between where a core comes out and a cover comes out, it's thicker than normal diameter and tight, and no amount of pulling will make any more core go in, yet I've got maybe 3 fid's worth of core out at this point. Is that normal? If this is a prob, could it be because I'm working with a pretty short piece and didn't have anywhere near 5 fid's from the last mark to the slip knot?

Tom

Yes, that sounds perfectly normal. Once you have cut and tapered, the diameter in that area will be smaller. That's what the tapering accomplishes.
You do end up cutting off and throwing away quite a bit of the core. Don't let that throw you off.
And yes, it helps to have plenty of distance from the ends to the stopper knot. In the video I think I said 6 to 8 feet. You should probably have at least 8 feet maybe a little more.
Keep in mind that some rope has a tighter cover than others. Sometimes the same type will vary spool to spool. You may have just picked one that is more difficult.

Hang in there.

Steve

[arf145]

Excellent. Don't worry, I'm definitely doing this on my furler next week.

But damn it, one more Q: what's the rule of thumb for figuring how much line length you lose in the process?

Tom

[sailingdog]

Depends on the rope and the type of splice you're doing, as well as your skill at splicing. A good estimate for double braids and cored lines is about 1.5-2' per splice plus the eye splice diameter in the case of a bigger eyesplice. .