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Old 06-05-2008
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Interior Varnishing

In a previous post I enquired about improving my dull and tired oil finnish. I've finally found the time to tackle it. The PO only put a couple of coats on many years ago and it has no gloss and looks very dry and I think offering little protection. I thought I would start with the unfinished hatch covers. They seem to me the same teak plywood as the rest of the interior panals. I tried Helmsman clear gloss on them. It went on very easily with no sags or runs. After two coats they look just ok. At least they have some protection on them and aren't in view. I also tried one coat on a piece from the cabin that was previously oiled. It came up really nice and really brought out the grain. I guess the difference with the raw wood not being sealed made a big difference. I really liked the ease of application and I think it would go on very easily on the vertical panals. Would you go for this on all your interior panals. Would the gloss be to much. To me it is a huge improvement over the lifeless appearance I have now. I am also concerned about future maintenance and durability. I am also considering useing epifanes clear gloss wood finish or wests wood pro or maybe even a traditional varnish. The thought of getting away without sanding has some appeal. I am a little afraid of all the verticle surfaces so I want something that goes on easily. And for an entirely different thought, I got a suggestion at the marina from a wood worker who really liked polermized tung oil from lee valley. After 4 or 5 coats wiped on with no buffing it looks like varnish. Anyone try that. I would appreciate any imput.
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Old 06-05-2008
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Helmsman clear gloss is a Spar Urethane, your going to find that very hard to repair or touch up. I wouldn't use it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bushrat View Post
.... I thought I would start with the unfinished hatch covers. They seem to me the same teak plywood as the rest of the interior panals. I tried Helmsman clear gloss on them. It went on very easily with no sags or runs. After two coats they look just ok. ...... I am also concerned about future maintenance and durability. .
Newly varnished teak should look breathe-taking, how did you clean and prep the teak before varnishing, tha tis half the job.

As to varnishing the interior, how long do you expect to keep your boat...if you expect to keep it for more than the life of the varnish application, say 6-10 years, then don't put the varnish on, because you never want to be around when it needs to all be removed. In other words, don't use varnish, unless you have a yacht where money and time are no objects, and only the best will do. I've recently put one coat of Cetal natural teak on my interior after cleaning and I find the result very pleasing, if a slight bit of a compromise.
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Free, Thats my biggest reservation. Living with it long term. It does go on easily though. I read you used Toikenans. Is that a satin finnish. Is it on your interior or exterior
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Sailingfool, I gave the unfinished wood a light 220 sanding to take off some dirt then a 320 light sand then wiped it down with acetone. No stain or sealer. On the oiled piece I only wiped down with acetone and it looks the best. Aren't you worried about trying to remove cetol someday? I would really like to have the cabin looking nice. To me that's part of the enjoyment of the boat. I do want a fairly easy solution that I can live with long term and I am willing to factor in maintenance of any finish.
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I used Toikenans on my exterior. I use cabots high gloss on my interior.
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Originally Posted by bushrat View Post
Sailingfool, I gave the unfinished wood a light 220 sanding to take off some dirt then a 320 light sand then wiped it down with acetone. No stain or sealer. ... Aren't you worried about trying to remove cetol someday? I would really like to have the cabin looking nice. To me that's part of the enjoyment of the boat. I do want a fairly easy solution that I can live with long term and I am willing to factor in maintenance of any finish.
You should use a two part cleaner and brightener product on the teak prior to finishing it, then you'll get the color and look that you want.
Cetol is very easy to remove, if should you ever want to. The magic of Cetol products is that you don't need to remove them...if maintenance is needed, just sand and apply some more. the resulting finish is not a Bristol, but it looks quite nice and the whole interior only took about 6-7 hours.
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Over on the wooden boat site they are raving about behr super spar you can get at home depot. Anyone try that? It certainly is inexpensive. They are all in a panic because home depot is suppose to be discontinuing it.
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I'm doing our interior with Helmsman poly clear gloss. Looks great and has to be as good as the stuff that's been on the wood for 25 years! The interior doesn't get the abuse that the exterior wood gets, so I'm not concerned about that. I'm using regular varnish on the exterior (not polyurethane which peels). If you mess around enough doing the "correct" thing with boats, you'll never get out of the slip! Good luck to ya.
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I second Sailingfools recomendation of Cetol. That is what I used on interior and exterior of my old boat and I like the ease of touch-ups. It holds up well. On the interior when dusting I use Armor All and it not only collects the dust but looks great too. Its nice having the same finish on the interior and exterior so I don't have to deal with more than one product. Touchups are easier that way also. Just my opinion, as your mileage may differ.
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Last edited by Catalina274me; 06-05-2008 at 09:01 PM. Reason: spelling
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