Installing a Automatic Battery Selector Switch - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 25 Old 07-08-2008
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You bastard, you are so right.

My 15 minute installation was 3 hours.

My new battery contacts/heads were a different gauge than my old. So none of the crimped connectors on the wires I pre-built fit. So I was sitting there with a battery powered drill grinding out the openings to fit over my battery contacts in moderate waves. It was also, of course, 100 degrees under my cockpit where all the work was taking place.

I was also one wire short so I started poking around. I traced each system in my boat and found a strange powered metal cylinder mounted under my sink. Any guesses? No idea what it did.

So curiosity got the better of me and I started disassembling it. Would you believe it was a 32 year old CIGARETTE LIGHTER, still powered, sitting under my sink mounted to old dry wood. TERRIFIC, just what I wanted on the boat... why didn't I think of mounting a 32 year old flame ignition device on dry wood???

The good news is that's been pulled and my boat is probably 40 times less likely to burst into flames randomly due to corrosion causing the "lighter" to short and catch fire. I also lost about 40 lbs of water weight sweating in the crawlspace.

Fun stuff, but now I have isolated dual batteries and I'm sure that's worth it.

Thanks for prompting me to go on this adventure!

Total project cost was about $300 including switch/charge controller package and about 10 feet of 4 gauge marine cable and terminators for them all.

BTW Jody I skipped the fusing as well. It would've added about $70-100 bucks to fuse the larger gauge wire and Blue Sea confirmed it's really mainly for protecting the wires themselves, since the charge controller is fused and all the instruments are fused as well. You guys agree or should I plan on putting in a fuse panel for the controller as a second step?

1976 25' O'day - "SeaWind"

Hello Sailor: "I've just learned that good boats, in good hands, are damned robust creations."
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post #22 of 25 Old 07-08-2008
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Umm... you jinxed yourself, and I'm the bastard... I was just pointing it out... Go ahead, shoot the messenger...

LOL...serves ya right...


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You bastard, you are so right.

My 15 minute installation was 3 hours.

My new battery contacts/heads were a different gauge than my old. So none of the crimped connectors on the wires I pre-built fit. So I was sitting there with a battery powered drill grinding out the openings to fit over my battery contacts in moderate waves. It was also, of course, 100 degrees under my cockpit where all the work was taking place.

I was also one wire short so I started poking around. I traced each system in my boat and found a strange powered metal cylinder mounted under my sink. Any guesses? No idea what it did.

So curiosity got the better of me and I started disassembling it. Would you believe it was a 32 year old CIGARETTE LIGHTER, still powered, sitting under my sink mounted to old dry wood. TERRIFIC, just what I wanted on the boat... why didn't I think of mounting a 32 year old flame ignition device on dry wood???

The good news is that's been pulled and my boat is probably 40 times less likely to burst into flames randomly due to corrosion causing the "lighter" to short and catch fire. I also lost about 40 lbs of water weight sweating in the crawlspace.

Fun stuff, but now I have isolated dual batteries and I'm sure that's worth it.

Thanks for prompting me to go on this adventure!

Total project cost was about $300 including switch/charge controller package and about 10 feet of 4 gauge marine cable and terminators for them all.

BTW Jody I skipped the fusing as well. It would've added about $70-100 bucks to fuse the larger gauge wire and Blue Sea confirmed it's really mainly for protecting the wires themselves, since the charge controller is fused and all the instruments are fused as well. You guys agree or should I plan on putting in a fuse panel for the controller as a second step?

Sailingdog

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post #23 of 25 Old 07-08-2008
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You're a bastard for always being so right!

I'm an idiot for jinxing myself...


Time for a beer.

1976 25' O'day - "SeaWind"

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post #24 of 25 Old 07-08-2008
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Birdy-

Have a second beer on me...

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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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post #25 of 25 Old 07-08-2008 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birdface View Post
BTW Jody I skipped the fusing as well. It would've added about $70-100 bucks to fuse the larger gauge wire and Blue Sea confirmed it's really mainly for protecting the wires themselves, since the charge controller is fused and all the instruments are fused as well. You guys agree or should I plan on putting in a fuse panel for the controller as a second step?
lol...see what a great weight loss plan it is ain't it The bright side, you know more about the electrical on your boat than most - and odds are, you'll be able to enjoy the electrical project more (like Chuckles, SD, and myself), because one less "task" to do each time you take off and come back in.

I think you'll be alright skipping the process I did. I opted to skip because I have a pretty elaborate circuit panel protecting everything upstream. I have it added as a future project, but personally - it was never fused before, so I don't think its a major concern. Enjoy that beverage and congrats on a job well done!

-- Jody

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